"How do you handle separate riders for painting?" Topic

I am trying a new method, for me, for painting cavalry.

Normally, I glue the 28mm rider to the horse, and spray prime and paint all together.

This time I am trying something new.
I am painting Russian hussars for a friend, and did the horses separately, mainly because of van dyking on the shabraque. I also wanted to try a Dark Brown spray basecoat and drybrush the horses lighter.
So far so good for the horses. Masking tape on the saddle, BTW.

How do the guys who paint the riders separately mount the riders to spray prime and paint? They do NOT have the casting tabs on the feet.
My first thought was to just lay them flat and prime, and then glue them to to the painted horses, and then proceed as normal.

BTW, I also do not do black prime. White prime for humans and bright uniforms.

Maybe "mount" them on a Nail head with some BluTack?

Glue together and spray. Black for me, though.

For any 'baseless' figures, be they riders, tank crews or elephant riders I stick the bottom of their feet to temporary painting bases using decent glue such as extra strength UHU. Paint them, prise them off and do the soles of their feet/boots seperately.

I sometimes drill a small hole under the saddle/rider and stick a nail up'em, then hold the nail to paint the figure.

Sometimes I use a clamp on one foot and then after most of the rider is painted I paint the remaining foot.

I put a nail/wire spear on a wine cork, then drill a small hole under the saddle/rider and glue the nail/wire in there with white glue. I then hold the cork during painting.

Iannick
clashofempires.ca
link

I do the same as the Archiduc does.

I have several rigs of two pieces of wood glued together with hot glue to make a T so one strip serves as the base and another makes a vertical. You can used paint stirring sticks though I picked up a bunch of strips and cut my own to the sizes I wanted, in the thickness I wanted. I then stick the riders to the vertical strip with hot glue to paint and then pop them off when finished.

Same for me, re: wire if there is no tab to hold onto. If I'm lazy, though, I'll just paint the feet last. Also, rather than using masking tape, I'll use latex rubber frisket both on the saddle/saddlecloth and on the rider's seat.

Damon.

Drill hole in butt (of figure where it will never show) Glue cheep dollar store bamboo skewer into hole. Makes a handle for painting the fig and you can stick it in some old styrofoam to hold it when you're not working on it. Clip off skewer when you are ready to glue fig to horsie.

I paint the horses and figures seperate. I prime them white (Brings out the bright colors which I like)then proceed to paint the horse. I prime the figures by laying them down, priming one side then after it drys I turn it over and prime the other side. When painting the figures, I hold them in my hands and don't paint the boots til last. I stand them up to dry, leaning them against a paint jar. After painting the boots, I lay the figure down with boots in air to dry. Pretty simple and it works fine for me. Can get all the detail that way. I glue them to the horse after all is painted. Finally I do the bases that the horse has been mounted on and then, after drying, I spray the entire figure and base with a dull coat.

I don't. I leave that up to my figure painter.

I do either Evil Bob's or Wolfschanza's method, depending on whether I want to bother drilling a hole in the figs' butts.

I drill a hole up the keister of the rider and glue in a toothpick for a handle. Mount in pre-drilled jig and spray away. When dry, the toothpick is used to hold the rider while painting.

I drill holes in both feet just behind the stirrups and then mount the figure to a plastic bottle cap and prime the figure and horse separately. I touch up the bottom of the feet before I glue the man to the horse. Doing the rider and mount separately helps me paint the saddle blankets which can be elaborate on medieval Arabs. Also I do 13th century skirmish so I am not doing tons of figures but spend a lot of time on each one.

For 28mm I made some wooden blocks with 1/4" dowels sticking out. Used glue such as UHU to fix the figure to the dowel, produces a nice stable base and a handle to hold the figures. I think I first saw this idea on Paul Robinson's "Grimsby Mariner" blog.
For smaller scales, I tend to fix rider to horse and then prime and paint together.

I use a 3 inch nail,hot glue nail head to keister prime and paint using nail to rotate fiqure and when done stick nail in BLUE BOARD to hold .

I paint them separately then use a pin vise to pin the rider to the horse. I have a separate stand with piano wire to mount the rider to so I can paint and get at all the angles on rider. I use walmart grey primer for priming.

John, I use the nail Method, but my version is a bit more elaborate…

I take strips of wood and pound finishing nails into them, usually 6-8 if larger scale figures, 8-12 for 15's. I fun-tac the rider to the nail head at a 45 degree facing so that I have access to the sabertache, etc. This allows me to hold the piece of wood and paint such that I have enough room to use the brush without fear of hitting the next one in line.

A bit tedious to measure and prep, but its worked well for me over the years. I use the same method for 1/285 – 1/300 scale armor.

prime them separately, paint the horse first, then glue the rider to said horse and use the horse as a painting stand.

I just lay them out, spray prime one side then the other.
During painting I just hold the feet/boots. These are the last to be painted after gluing on the figure.

I glue them together then paint.

I just hot glue their feet to a paint stirring stick and go from there. They sometimes fall off and you have to repaint the feet when done but it is so much easier than anything else I've tried.

Generally I use a raised weapon arm to hold the rider with a clothespin or plastic clamp. When not practical, I stick the feet into a blob of poster putty and stick that onto a bottlecap or other handle. Paint the held part last.

Pinning riders to horses is a good practice, making the pin hole in keister a good approach, but truthfully I hadn't thought of it the last time I did a bunch of cavalry.

Drill a small hole, insert a toothpick with supergel and push it into a small block of styrofaom.
After painting the wood/glue bond separates easily.