nnascati  | 16 Mar 2013 10:11 a.m. PST |
All, What I'd like to do, is turn ETO US infantry into PTO Marines, by covering the leggings to look like long trousers. This is my first time using green stuff, and I would appreciate any tips. Basically, I need to make from below the knee down look like a trouser leg. Also, I'd like to fashion helmet covers. |
BrigadeGames  | 16 Mar 2013 10:35 a.m. PST |
You need one of these: link |
| FABET01 | 16 Mar 2013 10:35 a.m. PST |
Start with a small amount of a 50/50 mix of blue and yellow. However much you think you'll need, you'll probably only need about half the amount. Greenstuff has working time of up to three hours depending on the conditions your working under. Practical working time is about 2 hours. Get it on the surface you want within 15 to 30 minutes. After that it harder to get it to stay in place. Give it some time to set up (about 15 minutes) and start smoothing it. You'll need to do that several times. You can put various folds and slits into the putty during the whole process. The longer you wait to do those the sharper the result will be, so a soft fold is best done early, and a clean cut is best done later. Hope that helps some. There's a lot more that can be said, so if you have questions post them here and I'll try to keep an eye out for them. |
nnascati  | 16 Mar 2013 10:38 a.m. PST |
Am I better off working with a very thin/flat bit of stuff, ie trouser thickness, or a thicker coating? |
| 45thdiv | 16 Mar 2013 10:58 a.m. PST |
It's important to take what fabet01 said. You are going to work in small amounts. Go thin. You can add more if needed later. Matthew |
nnascati  | 16 Mar 2013 11:03 a.m. PST |
Since I am adding to the trouser that is already there above the knee, I expect that any creases and folds should match what is there? |
| 45thdiv | 16 Mar 2013 11:11 a.m. PST |
Yes to a point. Look at the way your pants drape when you stand or sit. The bottom part of your pants does not crease very much unless they are being tucked into boots or something. Matthew |
| thabear | 16 Mar 2013 11:35 a.m. PST |
You can also have some clean water on standby , if the stuff sticks to your fingers or sculpting tool just dampen them a bit. Experiment a little too , see if you can trial on a spare figure. If you have a blob of green stuff sitting too long doing nothing it will begin to harden, just knead it every now and then to keep it pliable and soft. I use everything from a scalpel blade , a large pin and a pen lid to sculpt with green stuff , dipping in a little water beforehand can help sometimes Helmet covers are easy , just fill in the indented curve above the rim , add some vertical creases but dont let it bulge out , keep it to the shape of the helmet . cheers Tom |
| Trockledockle | 16 Mar 2013 12:12 p.m. PST |
Have you tried the Games Workshop Green Stuff in a small paint tin? Quite liquid and I find easier to work with than putty from a tube. |
| Rubber Suit Theatre | 16 Mar 2013 12:24 p.m. PST |
First tip – don't use green stuff. Seriously – it's a real bother for a novice to work with. It's very sticky and stretchy compared to other materials (I like Magic Sculpt). Water's a sub-optimal lubricant for it, as it's designed for plumbing applications – use mineral oil and wash between layers (olive oil works too, but it smells funny). One trick for blending layers is to start the tool moving in the crease you're attempting to expand and then take it where it needs to go after it enters the pliable stuff. Your grain of salt, or "Who the hell is this joker and does he know what the %$#@ he's talking about" (hint: maybe, but not enough to pay him for it), AKA some of the portfolio: link |
| Mark 1 | 16 Mar 2013 12:41 p.m. PST |
I agree with RST. Bother the Green Stuff. I suggest you try using an Acrylic Gel Medium. In this case, "medium" refers to a carrier (rather than between small and large)
it is the "blank" material from which acrylic paints are made. Just add a coloring agent. If you get a gel medium, it has a texture like pudding. A little thicker than white glue, but notably thinner than clay or putty. It is quite easy to work with, using just a paint brush and toothpick, or coffee-house stirring sticks if you prefer. No need for sculpting tools. It usually comes in white, but dries to an un-colored translucence. You can paint over it, or mix paint in to give it color as you apply it. It is very useful for adding thickness or texture to existing structures or figures. Not good for making something seperate. So stick with Green Stuff to make bedrolls or sand-bags, but go with acrylic gel medium to change legs, arms or headwear, or to make zimmerit on a tank's armor, or add some depth and texture of terrain to a base or a diorama. That's my advice. No charge, and worth everything you spent for it. -Mark (aka: Mk 1) |
nnascati  | 16 Mar 2013 1:04 p.m. PST |
Is gel medium the same sort of thing as modellng paste. |
| 45thdiv | 16 Mar 2013 1:39 p.m. PST |
I use magic sculpt to make my rough shapes, but as I use it more, I have started to do more detail work. If you are looking to move away from green stuff, try Procreate. It is easier to use than green stuff and not as tacky. Matthew |
nnascati  | 16 Mar 2013 3:01 p.m. PST |
I'm not building figures, just adding trouser legs over leggings. |
| 45thdiv | 16 Mar 2013 4:20 p.m. PST |
No matter what clay you end up using, I still say to work with as thin of an amount as you can. Matthew |
| Lion in the Stars | 16 Mar 2013 6:25 p.m. PST |
Liquid green stuff is good for smooth sections, like muscles or whatever, but for building out trouser legs I'd use the 2-part stuff. You're going to use about a quarter of what you think you're going to need. Try to make sure you get equal portions of blue and yellow, and then it's taffy pulling time. mash the two pieces together, stretch it out until it breaks, then mash those two pieces together, repeat until it's a uniform color. Now that it's a uniform color, put the GS on the leg, and wrap it around entirely. You will want a cup full of water and some dental tools to shape GS with. |
| Khusrau | 17 Mar 2013 3:01 a.m. PST |
You have two choices.. either bulk up and wait until it is pretty much dry and then sculpt with knives etc, or try to sculpt in situ by applying appropriately shaped green stuff slips. The first is easiest – the second gives more natural results. Give both a go.. it is easy to roll back. |
| Zephyr1 | 17 Mar 2013 2:26 p.m. PST |
I have a piece of smooth marble tile that I use to roll out GS on. You can get it really thin that way, then use a hobby knife to cut & lift off the sections as needed. |
| Cacique Caribe | 17 Mar 2013 3:28 p.m. PST |
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nnascati  | 18 Mar 2013 9:03 a.m. PST |
I want to change ETP GIs into PTO Marines, by sculpting trouser legs over leggings. |