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"Just bought figures, need some advice." Topic

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1,558 hits since 12 Dec 2012
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mindfad Inactive Member12 Dec 2012 9:43 a.m. PST

So I just bought the warfactory zombies, and vixens

Some of the not avp in 15mm and the not- Scooby crew from Hasslefree

hasslfree examples:

For the War factory guys what do I use to assemble them? greenstuff, first set of guy where assembly is required not re sure.

My big question is what paint should i buy, does anyone have any suggestion for some of the figures that i listed. Color schemes are brands

any help would be much apprecitated, completely clueless on the paint issue

MajorB12 Dec 2012 10:17 a.m. PST

My big question is what paint should i buy, does anyone have any suggestion for some of the figures that i listed. Color schemes are brands

Hobby acrylic paints e.g. Vallejo or Coat d'Arms.

Pijlie Inactive Member12 Dec 2012 10:24 a.m. PST

If I understand you correctly you want to know which glue or paint to use on plastic WF zombies and Hasslefree metals?

Glue: UHU or Revell Contacta glue for sale in any modelling shop for the plastics. Cut the parts with a really sharp scalpel type hobby knife and invest in a pair of good cutters and pliers. For the metals use Zapacap (quick) of two-part epoxy glue (slow but very strong),

Paint: Prime the figures before painting. Car primer is cheapest and works fine on both materials. I would recommend acrylics by Citadel or Model Color by Vallejo or its cheaper cousing Game Colour for painting the figures.

When you are planning to play with the figures apply a finish to protect the paint. Humbrol Matt cote is fine but does on occasion yellow with age. Talens (or Amsterdam) nr 115 acrylic varnish spray is my finish of choice.

Frederick Supporting Member of TMP12 Dec 2012 10:24 a.m. PST

While I would be the first to note that I am a zombie fan, I have assembled quite a number of the Wargames Factory historicals – I use a good quality plastic model

For painting, I would agree that Vallejo or Coat d'Arms are great – I also use the GW paints as well as the occasional Tamiya

One consideration might be to prime with an off-white, paint the clothing (such as it is) and then wash with either the GW brown wash (used to be Devlan mud- forget the new name) or another suitable wash – you can use this to "speed paint" a bunch of figs, especially the walkin' dead

War In 15MM12 Dec 2012 1:12 p.m. PST

The best zombie look I've ever seen was done by painting the skin a base color of Vallejo German Camo Black Brown. Once that base color is on use a three step process following the body ridges using first Reaper Ghoul Skin/09148, next Reaper Moldy Skin/09149 and finally Reaper Bloodless Skin/09150. Where blood is needed add Tamiya Clear Red/X-27. For open wounds on the zombie, lightly dry brush Vallejo Beige Red over the Black Brown base color and once dry apply a mixture of Tamiya Clear Red and Tamiya Clear Green/X-25. That mixture will give a nice dark look to the immediate wound and around that add the Tamiya Clear Red as running blood.

blackscribe Inactive Member12 Dec 2012 4:17 p.m. PST

Most people don't do this, but I recommend washing the figures with dish-wash-up fluid, rinsing 'em off good, and letting them dry completely before priming. Plastics like you're asking about aren't generally a problem, but for some materials and methods of manufacture, mould release and other goo is used.

CAPTAIN BEEFHEART12 Dec 2012 9:16 p.m. PST

I would recommend model airplane glue in a 'tube' as it give both the strongest bond as well as fills the joints.
Auto primer (see above) is also highly recommended.

I would also recommend some Milliput to customize the figures coupled with a lot of imagination. The sky is the limit. For Historical research, just look outside.

Good luck with your new project, You will not be disappointed.

BigNickR12 Dec 2012 9:36 p.m. PST

Wargames factory plastics: Modelmaster cement. This stuff YouTube link put a drop of it on the part you want to join, brush that drop between the two pieces to be joined so it spreds well but pull apart for the solvent to get PLENTY of air so both plastics get tacky. after 5-10 seconds press the two parts together (GENTLY) and the mushy plastic will fill its own gaps and bond almost instantly.

Metals: Zap-a-Gap link all the way. It is fast, strong, and lower odor than some of the other superglues.

Both will require some tools to PREP the miniatures for assembly:

use a Needle file link all seams and joint parts. Glue works by bonding uneven surfaces, a file "roughs up" a surface while removing pits, pocks, or burs that make the surface TOO uneven.

A Dremmel (or in my case a black and decker RTX link lets you do pinning YouTube link drilling (for headswaps and making those wargame factory zombie "neck holes" a little deeper)) and the grinder so you can flatten the bottoms of those minis bases so they glue to fender washers better.

Last but not least I recommend using FENDER WASHERS link to mount the miniatures on (gives the plastics a nice weight near the BOTTOM of the figure) and putting ZD-1 magnets link in the little hole so you can store them on cookie trays link for easy storage. Using this method you can store the cookie sheet UPSIDE DOWN and the minis stay on! (Not that you WOULD, but still)

Paints, I like Applebarrel link for the blues, browns, and greens (Not thrilled with the yellows oranges or reds coverage) , reaper for my reds and flesh tones (and anything else really)

Really nice bit on the reaper paints is that the agitator (shaky bit that rattles) is a skull, so free bits if you finish the pot!

After you paint, wash/dip (I use minwax polyshades, have in the past used the army painter product) seal wit hkamar varnish, and if you don't like glossy minis, hit with testors dullcote

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