Cacique Caribe | 08 Dec 2012 11:07 p.m. PST |
Suggestions for scratch-building something like this?
link Reminds me of a cross between Giger's Alien concept and the filming set of Farscape (Moya ship).
Anyway, what suggestions do you have for duplicating those "organic" design elements over and over again? Thanks, Dan TMP link TMP link |
Hazza31B | 09 Dec 2012 12:00 a.m. PST |
Love that movie, always scared me when I was young |
cloudcaptain | 09 Dec 2012 12:03 a.m. PST |
spray foam
perhaps with a template pressed it when it is almost dry? |
Cacique Caribe | 09 Dec 2012 12:16 a.m. PST |
CloudCaptain: "perhaps with a template pressed it when it is almost dry" What do you suggest I use to make that template, so that it doesn't stick to the foam after it dries hard? By the way I really like the shape of those "columns" in the background: link link link More here:
kindertrauma.com/?p=16114
link
link Dan PS. Also found amazing sites that show the concept behind the living ship Moya (from Farscape): link link |
napthyme | 09 Dec 2012 12:49 a.m. PST |
Dan what happened to your green stuff roller you were working with to make walls like this? |
Cacique Caribe | 09 Dec 2012 12:58 a.m. PST |
I've made several actually. However, it seems that, no matter how much detail I add to the rollers, the impressions made on thin polystyrene sheets is never as good as I expect. So, I think I need to look at other materials and/or other means to make crisp 3-D impressions. Dan |
Cosmic Reset | 09 Dec 2012 7:52 a.m. PST |
For most of the repetative wall textures, I would rough out the basic terrain shape in foam, then draw the patterns that I wanted on the surface of the foam, then "re-draw" them into the foam with something like the Foam factory engraver. You could also make some pattern sections, make molds and cast them in plaster/resin/etc. Columns and other free-standing constructs could be done as clay/putty/plastic masters cast in resin. Though it probably sounds intimidating, I would go with the hot wire engraver with resin cast details added. Working with the hot wire thing would be faster for me than making masters, mold, casting and fitting together the parts for extended hallways and rooms. Additionally, using the hotwire for most of the wall textures would create a more flowing style, than using cast sections. I've make rollers for use with polystyrene foam, and they can work, but you need a lot of pressure to get deep crisp patterns. You might even have to build a press, depending on the specific application. The best results that I had with rollers involved carving the pattern into a hardwood roller, though that was many years ago, before some of the newer digital technology was available. I've also made pattern plates using a roller over the plate to apply the pattern into the foam, working something like the ringer from an antique washing machine. |
Dropzonetoe | 09 Dec 2012 9:14 a.m. PST |
CC, I've seen you ask about this quite a bit. How do you plan on using this, what is the final goal? As a space hulk like table with a slew of rooms and corridors? A whole table? 15mm, 28mm? Mass making organic shapes would be pretty hard to do anyway in a realist fashion. I would suggest your roller used in sculpty, then cooking it half way and draping it in the organic shape your looking for. Lastly you need to make a small mold of outcropping shapes, chicken bones walling, chest-burster sacks, whatever and add to the outside for more depth. |
napthyme | 09 Dec 2012 12:29 p.m. PST |
Maybe you need to try another material instead of polystyrene sheets. have you tried lubricating the roller and using more green stuff instead? |
Kyn ell | 09 Dec 2012 2:52 p.m. PST |
I'd go for using relief moulding with plasticene and plaster. Cheap and easy. Theres a bit about it here if you aren't familiar with the technique (lesson 2 in the PDF) tepapa.govt.nz/henry_web/pdfs/Lesson_plans.pdf Chicken bones and pork ribs (cleaned up and dried!)are good for making giger like organic imprints in the clay mould. Just remember to use a good strong stone plaster like Herculite to make sure the casts dont break easy. Of course the good thing about this technique is that you can mass produce loads of wall sections quickly and cheap, because you just reuse the modelling clay again and again! |
Cacique Caribe | 09 Dec 2012 8:28 p.m. PST |
Napthyme, One of my earlier tries at an embossing roller. I did away with it a while back:
linkTMP linkHowever, this was my very last attempt at making a roller. I tried to impress on thin polystyrene foam sheets with, once again, very mediocre results:
More: link Not sure how this latest try might work on clays though. I wonder if I should try it on a polymer clay (Sculpey), once I flatten it out the appropriate height (about 6mm) and then stretching a thin sheet of plastic wrap on the surface to avoid having clay stick inside the roller detail. NOTE: My goal would be to make alien wall configurations somewhat like this, without the floor portions: link link Thoughts? Dan |
Cacique Caribe | 09 Dec 2012 10:35 p.m. PST |
Imagine walls like these, but with Giger-esque patterns instead, and with the floor area left open:
link Dan |
napthyme | 10 Dec 2012 12:07 a.m. PST |
wow, now that new roller is really cool. You should be able to use petro jelly on it and then roll it into other green stuff without then sticking together
|
Eli Arndt | 10 Dec 2012 6:42 a.m. PST |
Have you considered rolling into Sculpy? You could roll it, then shape it, bake it and then mold the final results. I'm sure you could find a resin caster willing to help you out. -Eli |
Cacique Caribe | 10 Dec 2012 9:33 a.m. PST |
Thanks! Let me see if I can get a hold of some Sculpey to try it out. If I were to emboss Green Stuff with it, I will end up needing a lot of it. Too much, in fact, considering that I haven't perfected the concept yet. Dan |
Eli Arndt | 10 Dec 2012 2:12 p.m. PST |
Sculpy is readily available at craft stores as well as several alternative brands. I advice working in a very warm room and letting the Sculpy warm up and then work it really well before you lay it out to roll it. I'd imagine that you do not have to worry about squaring the edges of your Sculpy bands as you can trim after rolling. Apply your lubricant to the laid out Sculpy, not the roller and make sure to wipe it off before baking. Tinfoil can be used to build bracing forms for baking your corners and such. DAS air-dry clay might work good for doing masters for resin-casting. -Eli |
Zephyr1 | 10 Dec 2012 3:51 p.m. PST |
All I can think of is to use an electric glue gun and build up 'ribbing' on the wall sections. You could make smooth ribs, and also make ones built up of small 'blobs' to represent segments. Then paint to hide any mistakes
. ;-) |
Alfrik | 10 Dec 2012 7:52 p.m. PST |
Tweazers and Jewlers Loop Magnifier, tons of patience
. |
Eli Arndt | 11 Dec 2012 10:54 a.m. PST |
Made these over the last couple nights.
Not exactly the walls your looking for but I played with butting them together in a solid wall and it made for a reasonably organic looking wall but without all the gubbins you are looking for. -Eli |
Cacique Caribe | 11 Dec 2012 9:55 p.m. PST |
Eli, Those look so cool!!! Have you done any alien-ish terrain that is horizontal, and low to the ground, instead of vertical? Thanks, Dan |
Eli Arndt | 11 Dec 2012 10:28 p.m. PST |
Not yet. I have an idea to do some low rocky outcroppings with sculpted Giger style bug holes and vents under the overhang. -Eli |
Cacique Caribe | 12 Dec 2012 1:39 p.m. PST |
Eli, Can't wait to see what you do in each step of that project!!! Dan |
Eli Arndt | 12 Dec 2012 2:24 p.m. PST |
Having a hell of a time shaping the foam base for the horizontal piece. Trying to get it to look like wind-swept and built-up. -Eli |
viper1959 | 12 Dec 2012 2:26 p.m. PST |
Some nice ideas here guys! |
darthfozzywig | 12 Dec 2012 2:32 p.m. PST |
Cool! I loved that movie. :) |
Cacique Caribe | 14 Dec 2012 4:29 p.m. PST |
I guess that rubber rollers like these work best with Sculpey and other clays: link TMP link Dan |
Cacique Caribe | 26 Dec 2012 11:21 a.m. PST |
Well
If the ancient Summerians succeeded making their "cylinder seals", I should have been getting some semi-decent results by now:
Dan |
Cacique Caribe | 26 Dec 2012 12:43 p.m. PST |
Here's what I initially thought of using:
link But after seeing a nice picture of one ancient cylinder seal mounted on "wheels" at each end, for producing an even impression, I realized that should be the way to go:
link link Dan |
Lee Brilleaux | 27 Dec 2012 8:12 a.m. PST |
I like the idea of your roller technique a lot, CC, but I think you haven't found the right medium to 'roll onto' yet. The sytrofoam won't take the pattern well enough. Sculpey needs to be heated to cure. Green Stuff will cost far more than any reasonable person would pay. Have you tried Paper Clay? paperclay.com Holds detail well, dries on its own by air exposure. I use it for exosed brickwork on buildings, using the reverse of a piece of plastic embossed card. my 'real artist' friend Bill Slavin uses it extensively in his WWII terrain. |
artbraune | 27 Dec 2012 3:57 p.m. PST |
@Dan – Would you consider selling copies of your alien terrain texture roller? |
Cacique Caribe | 26 Mar 2013 12:01 p.m. PST |
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Curufea | 26 Mar 2013 4:30 p.m. PST |
For the miniature version of Leading Edge's Aliens boardgame I put together for their 25mm figures – I found it fairly easy to use egg cartons, silicone for slime, and casts of bone – or just bones. It's fairly easy to find complete skeletons around roads. You only want the smaller ones though. |
napthyme | 26 Mar 2013 11:18 p.m. PST |
Dan I have a big tube of GS that I have never used. I offered to send it to you to try and make some wall sections in 15MM with your rollers. |
Cacique Caribe | 27 Mar 2013 4:13 a.m. PST |
I'll take it! Thanks so much. Dan |
napthyme | 27 Mar 2013 11:24 a.m. PST |
ok, let me know where I need to send it then. |