"going in circles on new napoleonic project" Topic

I suppose the first thing I should say is that the goal of the project is to get two fairly small napleonic forces to fight across a small table. I want to do lower level engagements rather than big refights, so in that sense the smaller table is less of an issue.

While 'trying' to keep that goal in mind, I bought some 6mm (Baccus), some 10mm (Pendraken) and some 28mm (Warlord) to sample the scales and the effects on base sizes.

The problem is of course is that I like them all for different reasons.

The 6mm are the hardest to paint for my older eyes because sometimes I am guessing where and what I am hitting with the brush. But size wise, they are perfect for the small table and to get a quick collection together.

The 10mm I can see what I am painting, as with the 6mm, I am only doing a 'wargame job' helped along by a dirty wash, but they meet the 2 to 3 foot rule. Terrain footprint takes a jump and the ranges of buildings are harder to get.

The 28mm are just aesthetically lovely. Perhaps less practicle for the smaller table, especially as buildings can look out of wack and storage is an issue but they are really too nice to ignore and bases can really add to the overall effect, though I am not looking forward to the painting investment of getting two smallish forces onto the table. I am doing a careful block paint job with a dirty wash and some detailing.

I think the captian sensible part of me knows that he smaller scales will serve the project better, but the captain emmotional part of me (and my eyes) like the bigger stuff.

For this project, if I were doing 28mm, I would go with 4-6 infantry formations per side, 1 – 2 cavalry units and 1 – 2 artillery units with overall 6 or so formations per side. Those numbers would increase by a small margin if doing the smaller scales.

Has anyone who has gamed at that kind of level got any observations and in particular I am looking for suggestions for rules (since so many new one have arrived in the past 18 months) that can comfortably work with the 'chosen scale' on an area of say 5 x 3 or even 4 x 3 with the number of formations mentioned.

I have a back injury, so this project is intended specifically to avoid bending over into the midle of bigger tables etc. thanks in anticipation.

Is a formation a unit? If you are talking about 4-6 units of infantry per side that's not a lot for a non-skirmish game. Unless each unit has 30 figs in it. Anyway, for something that small you'll probably want to look at Blackpowder. It can easily handle what you want.

Thanks,

John

Neil Thomas' 'Napoleonic Wargaming' link link is specifically designed for 6-8 units per side, and would fit fine with 28mm figures on a 5'x3' or 4'x3' (I play them on a 3'x2' with 6mm figures on a 6cm frontage).

Regards

For a different style of napoleonic gaming with 25/28mm check out how our small corner of the world has played for 30+ years. We don't have the need for large miniature battalions and have all the flexible results of the era. Information on the rules are posted on the same site.

I have played games using our group rules on card tables…. teaching students.

Card table gaming sort of: link

WR

John – Yes, I am thinking of a formation and unit as being the same thing, though comprising of say 4 bases for napoleonics. I painted my 28mm to go 6 figures on a 50mm base (2 ranks)., I envisaged 4 bases (24 figs) to the unit (battalion?). My 6mm I did as 6 stands (24 figs) in 2 ranks on a 60mm x 30mm base (as per Polemos). My 10 mm as 6 figs in 2 ranks on 25mm base with 24 figs to the unit.

I am interested that you thought Black powder could do it – I might like that, but thought (wrongly) it was for bigger games.

Whirlwind, I have his book but have never played it. Perhaps I should do that with some 'blank' bases to see how it goes for me, it is along the lines of what I was thinking. I know he outlines table size for the various scales in the book, which seem to accord with your own experiences.

WR, Thanks for the link, very useful at this time, I enjoyed your reply in the comments section. Rightly or wrongly, I think I would prefer to have a greater sense of mass with the units (i.e. more figures per unit).

I suppose to pad out my original post, I should say some other thoughts going around in my mind and causing a distraction on the napoleonic question is that I aslo fancy doing a couple of Impetus armies and something with either Bolt Action or he Operation Squad rules (which I already own). I also have the new Dux Bellorum rules. So that little mix is wanting me to have something a little generic in terms of gaming area and terrain scale … yes I know, you can't have it all :-)

thanks for the responses so far.

@Normsmith I too will in the near future be embarking on 28mm Napoleonic – I'm unsure as to which period / campaign or battles you wish to game, but if you haven't made a choice I would look at either the 1809 campaign, 1813 Campaign or Peninsular War – all three had many smaller engagements just right for the amount of forces you are looking at example The Action at Pfaffenhofen 1809 or Stadatamhof 1809, or the engagement at Arnhofen and Biburg 1809, or Teugen-Hausen / Dunzling 1809, The Battle of El Bodon 1811, are all classic exmaples of small engagements with Inf, Cav, and art with critical aspects on the result. May I suggest you pick up if possible Thunder on the Danube 1809 volume 1 by Gill or Napoleon's Spring Campaign 1813, or Napoleon's Dresden Campaign or Napoleon at Leipzig by Nafziger – all contain small to medium sized engagements. You don't need to have a Corps to really fight any of the battles / engagements I have listed, most are at the brigade to battalion / company / squadron level.

I hope this helps.

How about something like dbn with 12 stands?
I would also check out volley and bayonet.

A second recommendation of Black Powder from me – as long as you can agree with your opponent on what constitutes a tiny,small, standard or large unit, they can really be any number of figures you want, so long as they have similar footprints, so sounds ideal for you….

Not a rule reccomendation rather advice on how to save your eyes when painting 6mm figures. For me I like 6mm as I get nice mass looking units and 6mm allows me to do this. To allow me to paint them I bought two things. A hands free magnifier with built in daylight lamp and a set of non prescription reading glasses with +3 magnification. Once you get used to the fact that the figure is closer than you expect due to the foreshortening effect of the lens it makes painting smaller scale figures much easier especially if you only want to pass the 3-4 foot test.

I did buy one of those magnifying lenses on a stand – but I wear a vari focal and I found it difficult to properly judge the position of the figure V the brush tip when bringing them together and too often the thing felt like it was swimming in front of me. Perhaps I should try again.

Hi

In the larger scale (28mm) your cavalry will be within a move (OR less) of each other from the get go …

On such a small table you will have litte room to manouver troops and your artillery will often times have most of the opposition in their range.

I would go 6/10mm and have 'space' to deploy and manouver troops OR go for a bigger table for the 28mm OR consider skirmish rules/forces for the 28mm.