| Wargamer84 | 26 Sep 2012 2:12 a.m. PST |
Here following some images of Napoleonic British 95th Rifles 28mm Foundry under development. They are not finished of course but I'd like to post them here and receive some opinions before they are finished and varnished because they are my first NAPS. I am really bad in colours matching and blending, that is one of the reason why I simply prime paint and whas with no highlight.
Here is the recipe I used: Tamiya fine grey Primer VMC 955 Flat Flesh VMC 980 Black Green (Uniform) VMC 975 Military Green (Plume and Shako cords) (NOT SO SATISFIED) VMC 950 Black (Shako) VMC 861 Gloss Black (Boots) VMC 995 German Grey (Gaitiers) VMC 909 Vermillion (Scarf and Officer "Belt") Weapon: VMC 916 Sand Yellow washed with VMC 828 WoodGrain Metal part is something like Gunmetal Blue but will be changed into: VMC 865 OILY STEEL (more historically correct) I'll finish with: VMC 950 Black for backpack and Webbing (maybe gloss black for leather look) VMC 820 Offwhite for big bag VMC 961 Sky Blue for Canteen VMC 940 Saddle Brown for Leather Decals on BACKPACK and CANTEEN Wash will be with Vallejo Black or Devlan Mud still have to decide for that, and flesh probbaly with Vallejo Wash Flesh: still have to define it. No Highlights cause I'm not able to choose right colors. |
| Edwulf | 26 Sep 2012 2:23 a.m. PST |
Front Rank right? Look good mate. |
| Wargamer84 | 26 Sep 2012 2:30 a.m. PST |
Thank u very much. any kind of suggestion or critics is more than welcome. I tried to Crosspost on Napoleonics painting guide area but system doesn't work properly today. |
| Inkbiz | 26 Sep 2012 3:47 a.m. PST |
Nice job Nick, coming along very well there. Regarding your hesitancy to use highlights, will you be using a wash? Great work and thanks for sharing! Cheers, Bob |
| Wargamer84 | 26 Sep 2012 4:13 a.m. PST |
Yes my plan is to use Black Vallejo was or Devlan mud. For flesh i can use Vallejo flesh wash. Consider that the photos have been take ib excellet condition of light under a painting lamp |
| John de Terre Neuve | 26 Sep 2012 4:31 a.m. PST |
They look good, I believe they are Front Rank rather then Foundry though. I might of gone a shade lighter on the uniform, for miniature purposes (Citadel Dark Angels Green is my choice), but you are I suspect historically correct for the the rifles uniform. If you plan to use polyurethane to finish off the figure, I might suggest that rather then using washes I would go to Army Painter darkest dip. This saves a step or two depending on how many different washes you use. Very nice job, John |
| Wargamer84 | 26 Sep 2012 5:06 a.m. PST |
Yes they are Front rank. I really care about historical details and do my best to match colors. I am really bad in finding the right shade. I really hate when i see figures painted with wrong colors (not shades but colors) it happen often in WW2 player. So i always try to do the best also because I think that even if i am not a good painter someone in future could use my pics as reference and this could be my only contribute to miniatures World. I forgot to mention that I have to use VMC Ivory and some dark brown/grey to paint the powder corn hornet. I still don't have understood or defined how I have to paint the blanket. Yes I will varnish with Vallejo Polyurhetane that I experienced is really strong and good for WRG play even with a single layer, the only problem is that it really "remove" or "Kill" the effect of the washes. I thought about 3 solutions for that: 1) Find which is the best WASH for this minis (Devlan Mud or Black) 2) Use it only in deep recesses of the minis and not all over it in order to create a stronger difference between clear and dark areas. 3) Learn to use highlights. The matter is that I really paint slow and have small time so I really don't want to risk to waste a well painted miniature with a bad highlights (with that tecnique you can really do a masterpiece or an orrible work). Consider also that I usually paint and take photos with a much better light condition than the playing one and this can change perspective (that is why many change color shade in my opinion). For example as u can see in images I choose different colors for BOOTS and BOOTS COVER but I am almost sure that it will be not possible to see that on gaming light. |
| Ashenduke | 26 Sep 2012 6:50 a.m. PST |
Looking really good so far. Look forward to seeing the finished miniatures. |
| ancientsgamer | 26 Sep 2012 7:06 a.m. PST |
Getting period uniforms right is actually easy because almost all shades were present. I am not kidding! Depending on the age of the uniform, how much field use and weather seen, and the fact that dye lots were not consistent. Don't assume a painting is correct on shades of uniforms because of this. Having said all this, my tendency is to paint to a consistent shade of uniforms for parade ground quality. Yes, I know the campaign look is right but I am used to seeing all of the glorified uniforms we see in painting, even if the truth is that this quality of uniform was extremely rare. |
Der Alte Fritz  | 26 Sep 2012 7:16 a.m. PST |
It's hard to comment on the colors as the pictures are too dark. They look like they will turn out nicely though. |
| Wargamer84 | 26 Sep 2012 7:21 a.m. PST |
I agree with ancientgamers at 100% regarding shade of uniforms altered by weather (sun/rain) and variations caused by not-industrial dye. I complain about gear/webbing of wrong colors or uniforms and colors suggested by Hollywood. I saw so many movies where Nazi uniforms are medium Grey while FELDGRAU color has a strong deep green tone. |
| Wargamer84 | 29 Oct 2012 2:21 a.m. PST |
Here following the status of the painting. I didn't have much time in last month so I stopped for a while
|
| Wargamer84 | 29 Oct 2012 2:47 a.m. PST |
I tested also two different washing in various areas, some black wash and some dev mud |