| Verplank1782 | 15 Jul 2012 11:26 a.m. PST |
I have to decide whether to go with the 2mm MDF bases or the thinner steel bases for my 6mm Napoleonics. Of course, units blend into the terrain better on thinner bases, but are more difficult to pick up without handling the figures. If I have to attach thin magnetic sheet to the bottom of the MDF bases, it will make the units look like they are standing on top of an earthen breastwork. |
HistoryPhD  | 15 Jul 2012 11:49 a.m. PST |
I do 6mm gaming and I always choose the thinnest base possible. As you said, the thicker base, plus magnet, and IMHO the stands end up looking borderline ridiculous. |
ghost02  | 15 Jul 2012 11:59 a.m. PST |
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| ironlegs | 15 Jul 2012 12:11 p.m. PST |
I use .8 mm plywood + .5mm magnetic sheet on my 10 mm for a light low profile base. I plan to cut out unit sized sheet metal templates to stick team on for ease of movement. More stuff on basing here – link Ironlegs 10mmnapoleonics.blogspot.com |
| ironlegs | 15 Jul 2012 12:13 p.m. PST |
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| bruntonboy | 15 Jul 2012 1:02 p.m. PST |
I tend to use 2mm mdf for 15mms and bigger, 60thou plasticard with steel paper underneath for my 10mm's. One trick to help the figures to blend into the terrain is to flock the edges of your bases, its a chore but really works. |
| Major Bumsore | 15 Jul 2012 1:12 p.m. PST |
I use mount board (approximately 1.5mm thick) for all my bases. |
Mako11  | 15 Jul 2012 1:12 p.m. PST |
If you don't want to flock the edges, at least paint them to match your flocking color, to help them blend in. Not sure why people don't do that, since it makes them look so much better, because they are far less noticeable. |
1968billsfan  | 15 Jul 2012 1:32 p.m. PST |
What is the problem with flocking the edge of the bases? Mix white glue, green paint & a little water. Smear on the edge of the base with an old paintbrush. Sprinkle on ground flocking. 20 seconds, maximum. Done. ?? |
| Widowson | 15 Jul 2012 2:07 p.m. PST |
My experience is that edge flocking takes a lot of wear, both in handling and in storage. Chunks break off and leave an unpleasant effect. That's why I just paint the edges. |
| bruntonboy | 15 Jul 2012 2:32 p.m. PST |
I have never worked out why anyone bother to mount figures on thick bases (those stupid slotta-base being the worst, do a great job with texture and flock on the top and then paint the edges black. Sure it looks neat, until they are used on the table that is. |
| Rudi the german | 15 Jul 2012 3:11 p.m. PST |
It depents if you want to pickup the base or the figure
Figures on thicker bases tend to live longer. |
VonBlucher  | 15 Jul 2012 3:22 p.m. PST |
I base mine on metal amd have a thick base with a magnet on in case I would use them at a convention to protect the figures. |
ancientsgamer  | 15 Jul 2012 4:21 p.m. PST |
Thicker bases are used to pick up the figures rather than the miniatures themselves. You don't flock the edges so that stands fit together better in formation and you can blur the lines of individual stands. I go as tall as 1/4 inch for 28mm figures. I use 3/32 inch think for 15/18mm. And I will put magnets underneath as well. Saves the paint jobs of the figures. |
Lion in the Stars  | 15 Jul 2012 5:02 p.m. PST |
I prefer thinner bases. I'm putting my 18mm Napoleonics on .032" mdf with a .025" thick 'flex steel' bottom. Works out to ~1.5mm total. I'd have to go with that for 6mm as well, since that's about the thinnest possible base. |
Mithmee  | 15 Jul 2012 5:45 p.m. PST |
Flames of War bases. They are the best thing about that game. All are perfect in size and can all be magnetized as well. Plus they come in three different sizes. Small for Infantry in 2x3 formation or as Bde Commanders. Medium for Cavalry, Division Cdrs and Artillery. Large for Corps Cdrs. |
Cardinal Hawkwood  | 15 Jul 2012 5:53 p.m. PST |
thick, 6mm people then pick up the base by the base not by the figures.. |
GROSSMAN  | 15 Jul 2012 6:15 p.m. PST |
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| Fredloan | 15 Jul 2012 6:47 p.m. PST |
Since I am spending so much of my time and money for commission painting, I want to preserve my figures as best I can with as little handling as possible. |
Mserafin  | 15 Jul 2012 7:42 p.m. PST |
Flames of War bases.They are the best thing about that game.
I don't play FoW, but I've always like the way the bases look. However, I've found that in practice the beveled edges make it nearly impossible to pick them up, which makes grabbing the figures too common, to the detriment of the figures. Of course, once I started adding magnet sheet to the bottoms of the bases the problem was solved, as now there is a flat edge to grab. |
Waco Joe  | 15 Jul 2012 8:07 p.m. PST |
I tend to have some grip problems with my hands so thicker is better for me. |
| WombatDazzler | 16 Jul 2012 3:23 a.m. PST |
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TodCreasey  | 16 Jul 2012 5:09 a.m. PST |
Thin with sheet metal as mentioned before |
Brent27511  | 16 Jul 2012 5:34 a.m. PST |
thick, 6mm people then pick up the base by the base not by the figures.. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the figures. |
yorkie o1  | 16 Jul 2012 6:02 a.m. PST |
Thick, as it protects the figures.
these are 2mm thick MDF from ERM. Steve |
Shagnasty  | 16 Jul 2012 6:25 a.m. PST |
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| jefritrout | 16 Jul 2012 7:22 a.m. PST |
I used to use thin metal with magnetic strips in the box. Storage and transport was easy however you always had to use the figures to pick up the stand. When on the table someimes the thin bases would overlap, and the metal would chip paint off around the ankles. One more than one occasion a figure was sheered off at the ankles from a careless friend moving my troops in a large multiplayer game. Now I go with thick bases and don't have that problem. |
| Fredloan | 16 Jul 2012 8:21 a.m. PST |
Just like rules, figure makers, etc. it's all personal preference. I think the more one spends on painting to a collection grade the more they prefer thicker bases. If someone paints basic wargame quality I am sure they are not as concerned. I have tried both and you definitely have to handle the figures with thin metal. |
| Fredloan | 16 Jul 2012 8:25 a.m. PST |
I actually saw the other day a 40mm x 15mm x 1mm thick magnet. Now that would solve all problems, thick enough with any style base for pick up, magnetic for solid storage, thin enough not to add too much height with a steel base. Only negative factor was, they were 1.25 USD each. That would cost 11.25 USD for each 36 figure Bn. |
Martin Rapier  | 16 Jul 2012 8:51 a.m. PST |
Thick. It protects the figures and helps to frame them. I also edge my bases black. |
Kevin in Albuquerque  | 16 Jul 2012 9:54 a.m. PST |
Thin, just like ironlegs says. BTW, ironlegs, very nicely done base, kudos to you. I also paint and flock the edges. |
VonBlucher  | 16 Jul 2012 10:17 a.m. PST |
Best of both worlds. I use thin metal when it's just me pushing them around. If I'm playing with a group I have 3mm bases with magentic sheet attached that the metal bases will stick to. I've not had any figures damaged since I've done this. John |
1968billsfan  | 16 Jul 2012 3:08 p.m. PST |
Thin. If you want to use wood blocks with figures perched on top, well thats okay, but I rather be able to look at the table top and imagine that I am peeking at a real view. If you want your tiny figures on the wargame table (normally seen from a distance of 8+ feet) to be beautiful, artistic masterpieces, might I suggest the following. Paint wargame figures to a decent standard and use them to play and also build some nice scenery. Also, get some 28mm or 54mm figures and do a great realistic paint job on them, and plant them on a separate table, with the OoB and scenerio instructions. Have it both ways. |
| Tartyy | 17 Jul 2012 2:43 a.m. PST |
I like 3mm the best, it's not too thick and not too thin
it's just right
and paint the edge a colour "similar" to the flocking. ( 3mm bases for both 28's and 18's ) 18's
28's
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| Fredloan | 17 Jul 2012 9:17 a.m. PST |
I like my 2mm thick mdf with a heavy flex magnet attached. If I can get 1.5mm thick base I would go to that so I am 2mm total with the magnet. I do not want to handle the figures frequestly. |