| Przemos85 | 01 Apr 2012 2:11 p.m. PST |
Hello
I've been strugling for a few days with painting flesh, including faces. While painting hands I got covered I can't paint face on acceptable level and I need a piece of advice "how to". I checked many tutorials and here are my failed attemps.
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| Dandy Don | 01 Apr 2012 2:26 p.m. PST |
Looks like you've got a decent shade tone going but need
to hi-light with a lighter flesh color. |
| rampantlion | 01 Apr 2012 2:37 p.m. PST |
I agree with Don, if it were me at this point I would go back and put a dot of light flesh tone on the nose, both cheeks and a swipe across the brow. Allen |
 timurilank  | 01 Apr 2012 2:55 p.m. PST |
Agree with the suggestions given and I would add some attention to the chin as this would suggest a mouth. Whichever hair colour you chose, you may want to add some 5 O'clock shadow either under the chin or along the jaw line. Do this with a thin wash of the same colour. Also, do not be afraid to make mistakes. Try painting on a white card to test your technique. Cheers, |
| leidang | 01 Apr 2012 4:07 p.m. PST |
I don't try to shade flesh with 15mm. I just buy figs with good facial detail, paint with a light flesh tone, and then do several very light washes with winsor newton brown ink. link |
| Garand | 01 Apr 2012 7:06 p.m. PST |
For 15mm I do shade and highlight, but for highlights I do a light, quick drybrush and call it a day. Most of the time in this scale that is sufficient… Damon. |
| Patyrn | 01 Apr 2012 10:45 p.m. PST |
"I don't try to shade flesh with 15mm. I just buy figs with good facial detail, paint with a light flesh tone, and then do several very light washes with winsor newton brown ink." I think those look good, but it's hard to tell with that picture. Got any clearer ones? |
| leidang | 02 Apr 2012 7:32 a.m. PST |
Not at the moment most of my pics are from a distance… and frankly I am not that good of a photographer. They aren't as detailed as if you actually do varied shading but for 15mm the ink pics out the details and they give a cleaner look. |
| Przemos85 | 02 Apr 2012 12:59 p.m. PST |
My figures were basecoated with Talarn Flesh and highlighted with Elf Flesh. Should I highlight Elf Flesh too using some lighter skinshade? |
| NigelM | 02 Apr 2012 1:07 p.m. PST |
My suggestion would be to finish the rest of the figures they will probably look just fine. I have many times looked at figures part way through painting and thought they looked horrible but they turned out alright in the end. For the record I paint flesh with red brown basecoat then dry brush medium flesh. |
| balticbattles | 02 Apr 2012 2:00 p.m. PST |
I'm still experimenting with 15mm technique, so this is useful. Just about to paint 400 ancient Germans. I've learnt that contrast is essential. I have painted brozed flesh and shaded flesh wash ( ok with good sculpting) painted black and drybrushed bronzed flesh ( too washed out) painted dark brown and bronzed flesh ( ok) and I'm going to add an extra highlight of bleached bone. I think that the 3 tone will give more shape than colours blending into each other. |
| Martin Rapier | 03 Apr 2012 3:27 a.m. PST |
For 15s I just do a black undercoat, then a basecoat of flesh (elf flesh is fine), a wash of W&N peat brown ink, and once dry, maybe a very light drybrush of lightened flesh or sometimes just white. For figures of that size it is plenty. |
| J Womack 94 | 03 Apr 2012 7:57 a.m. PST |
I use whatever skin tone I have chosen – it depends on the troops, you see, but usually use Vallejo Basic Skintone or Sunny Skintone, then wash with GW Devlan Mud. Quick highlight over that (noses, cheekbones, chin, sometimes jawline) with the original tone to bring it back up a bit. I'm happy enough with the results. |
| Ban Chao | 08 Apr 2012 1:43 p.m. PST |
a lighter tone in a ' T ' shape as mentioned does wonders ^^ |
opens the box on the Armoured Panzergrenadier Company HQ (Late-War) for Flames of War.
