Editor in Chief Bill | 11 Jan 2012 4:42 a.m. PST |
How much effort do you put into painting faces in 6mm scale? Just a basecoat of flesh color, or do you wash and highlight? |
Martin Rapier | 11 Jan 2012 4:57 a.m. PST |
I usually just blob on some flesh, sometimes I do a brown wash too. Some figures (Baccus) warrant more effort as they have more detail but I'm generally an H&R/Irregular guy. |
korsun0 | 11 Jan 2012 4:57 a.m. PST |
Well, I try the wash and highlight, but I don't know how effective it is. Still, from 3 feet away it at least shows if I have based the figure the right way up. |
Mooseworks8 | 11 Jan 2012 4:58 a.m. PST |
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Yesthatphil | 11 Jan 2012 5:08 a.m. PST |
Flesh + dip (occasionally + a highlighting dab) Phil |
Dave Crowell | 11 Jan 2012 5:13 a.m. PST |
They have faces? Someone had to say it. Just a blob of flesh for me. |
Striker | 11 Jan 2012 5:21 a.m. PST |
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combatpainter | 11 Jan 2012 5:37 a.m. PST |
Faces? Just look like blobs to me. :) |
elsyrsyn | 11 Jan 2012 5:51 a.m. PST |
Flesh + dip, or perhaps (if I ever master the technique) black undercoat and flesh drybrush. Doug |
Extra Crispy | 11 Jan 2012 6:00 a.m. PST |
Basecoat medium brown, highlight flesh. |
Angel Barracks | 11 Jan 2012 6:07 a.m. PST |
Normally just base colour. Brownish ink wash then highlight the nose and cheeks. |
Sundance | 11 Jan 2012 6:21 a.m. PST |
The eyes are a real !@#$% but I don't have any problem with the rest of it. No, seriously, I paint it flesh. |
flicking wargamer | 11 Jan 2012 6:25 a.m. PST |
At three feet you can't even see the rifles usually, let alone the faces. Life is too short. |
Martin Rapier | 11 Jan 2012 6:44 a.m. PST |
" let alone the faces " I find it is things like hands and faces, shiny bayonets etc which actually bring the figures to life in the smaller scales. |
Dale Hurtt | 11 Jan 2012 6:49 a.m. PST |
I prime black and paint the nose, chin, and cheeks in a total of four strokes. With the black left between the strokes, you even have a simulated mustache. Dale |
Frederick | 11 Jan 2012 6:52 a.m. PST |
I just blob on flesh More recently I have added "the dip" I do like Dale's idea |
A Twiningham | 11 Jan 2012 7:35 a.m. PST |
I like to blob on the face with a lighter brown live Vallejo's "Brown Rose" then go back with a lighter flesh and paint a "T" for the forehead (if visible) and nose and dot in the cheeks and chin. It is relatively fast and effective. |
scottsz | 11 Jan 2012 8:04 a.m. PST |
Base color + wash. A touch of highlight. If the sculpts are decent, it seems to work OK. I notice that more rich colors seem to help 6mm come to life more than larger scale, so flesh colors that too strong for a 25mm figure might look great on a 6mm. |
RobH | 11 Jan 2012 8:49 a.m. PST |
Depends if painting actual 6mm figures (H&R, Irregular or Scotia) then simple flesh dot. For larger Baccus flesh undercoat and brown ink wash to show the detail. Adler figures have 15mm heads anyway so they get a full paint/wash/highlight. |
ancientsgamer | 11 Jan 2012 10:39 a.m. PST |
What RobH said
. Although a two layer of chestnut brown followed by flesh color works too. I would say Adler are 10mm heads by the by. Baccus are really 8mm figures. |
Whirlwind | 11 Jan 2012 11:11 a.m. PST |
Usually just a basecoat, sometimes a wash. Regards |
Given up for good | 11 Jan 2012 2:53 p.m. PST |
Base coat and wash. One some alien figures I have added dots for eyes but they are bigger than humans
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TamsinP | 11 Jan 2012 3:15 p.m. PST |
Only done a few 6mm ACW union infantry so far – flesh colour followed by a raw/burnt umber wash |
Grizzlymc | 11 Jan 2012 6:06 p.m. PST |
I'm generally an H&R/Irregular guy
More fibre is called for. A dab of Humbrol flesh is adequate for me. |
Martin Rapier | 12 Jan 2012 3:56 a.m. PST |
LOL, I did wonder about that as I typed it. Strangely for 2mm I find an inkwash is almost essential to bring out the flesh whereas for 6mm a simple flesh blob is often sufficient. The smaller you go the more exaggerated the colour differences need to be. |
Dynaman8789 | 12 Jan 2012 5:06 a.m. PST |
I just dip the brush where the face and hands go, at 3 feet it is the color being there that matters. (doesn't even have to be exactly where it "should" be) |
Hazkal | 12 Jan 2012 6:21 a.m. PST |
Dab of flesh paint, and a wash of flesh ink to darken the recesses. The only time I'd go further is on a command stand where the figs might come under closer inspection. |
Scott Kursk | 12 Jan 2012 9:08 p.m. PST |
Flesh and dip all the way. Unless I am bored or get a bug up my butt and start highlighting and doing the eyes etc. Man, those days reeeeeealy slow my progress down. yawargame.blogspot.com |
le Grande Quartier General | 22 Jan 2012 3:34 p.m. PST |
Black prime, white drybrush (whole figure), flesh and other colors, high gloss coat, miracle wash, low gloss finish. |
le Grande Quartier General | 23 Jan 2012 10:47 a.m. PST |
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Given up for good | 25 Jan 2012 12:55 p.m. PST |
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Battlescale | 30 Jan 2012 4:03 p.m. PST |
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Dr Mike Salwey | 06 Jun 2012 4:29 a.m. PST |
There is the dot method – nose, cheeks and chins. It is suprising how similar a blob and W&N wash looks with less effort.
and at wargaming distance does it really matter. PS. I like paiting facial hair and stuff on my models, why – well because I can and I know they have been painted like that. Waste of time – probably. |
Khusrau | 06 Jun 2012 5:16 a.m. PST |
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etotheipi | 06 Jun 2012 5:19 a.m. PST |
I make goggle eyes in28mm
how much detail do you think I can put into 6mm. |
Dr Mike Salwey | 06 Jun 2012 6:52 a.m. PST |
The sculpted detail is quite amazing on 6mm so realy it is down to how much you want/are able to do. I use to do seperate iris colours in 28mm – not attempted that in 6mm
yet
lol |