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"Modifying 1/35 scale figures" Topic

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3,129 hits since 21 Dec 2011
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Drac Blau Inactive Member21 Dec 2011 11:48 a.m. PST

I am new here, and don't really sculpt miniature figures. I am a model builder though, and am wanting to modify 1/35 scale military figures and thought this was the perfect place to ask.

I was thinking of using Milliput or Magic Sculpt for the modifications. Are these suitable products for this purpose or should I invest in some green stuff?


DeanMoto Inactive Member21 Dec 2011 12:19 p.m. PST


If you're talking plastics, I used to use a hot knife for cutting & bending limbs, etc. The "hot knife" being an old Xacto blade heated with the flame from a burning candle. I also use to use heated (burning) sprue for conversions not recommended as it is similar to what I'd expect Greek Fire would've been like. That all said, there are plastic filler prodcuts like the type in a tube from Tamiya, etc. I hadn't had very good results with those other than for flowing manes and plumes/crests. I think Milliput is what the pros would use on plastic conversion. Best, Dean

ming31 Inactive Member21 Dec 2011 1:25 p.m. PST

Shepard paine did some books on diarama building , which oincluded figure modifacation . I prefer magic sculpt after the cut and reposition .

Rubber Suit Theatre Inactive Member21 Dec 2011 5:44 p.m. PST

Magic sculpt will stick to plastic and is easy to work if you have experience with clay or polymer clay (polyclay being unsuitable due to its heat cure). It's also relatively easy to carve or sand after it cures. Green stuff also works, but is a bit more difficult to work with (generally used more for its production properties than its sculpting properties). You pretty much have to cut it away and sculpt afresh if you don't like how it cured. Brown aluminum epoxy is also a viable choice, and is a bit less sticky and stretchy than green stuff, and somewhat more friendly to being cold worked.

Here's a nice technique for changing the pose on an existing plastic figure without all of that cutting and filling:


WarrenB Inactive Member22 Dec 2011 3:28 a.m. PST

I like milliput myself but it can be a handful if you're not used to working with it, or any putty. Magic sculp (and similar products like apoxie sculpt and cold clay) are easier to handle, but IMO can still be a little soft and crumbly for the finer details on small wargaming minis. But that is only 'IMO' 1/35 is plenty big, and I've seen other sculptors use it without a hitch.

The benefit of green stuff, to misquote Tom Meier, is that it's easy to work into tiny details without tearing. It does come with a springy memory and rubbery cured texture, though.
Polymeric Systems now recommends mixing 1.5 parts of yellow to 1 part blue, rather than a straight 1:1 mix, which should help with the 'spring' problem. link Other elastic putties with lower memory are procreate and as Rubber Suit Theatre says, brown/aluminium (brown stuff).

Again, as RST says, there aren't many fixes for the rubbery texture of straight GS, that prevents easy cold working. But I like to get around it by not using straight GS. It mixes well with other putties to create a happy medium. (that is, for those who think one's needed)
I like adding some to milliput or magic sculp, myself. In my experience it goes some way towards binding the claylike texture of MP/MS, 'loosening' the GS, and the whole is still hard and easily cold-worked after curing. A green stuff/brown stuff mix is also popular with some pro sculptors:


Warren B.

Drac Blau Inactive Member22 Dec 2011 9:03 a.m. PST

Thanks for the detailed replies and links. I will look through all the links and get ideas.

Yes, the figures are styrene plastic and sometimes resin. I will be modifying existing figures' limbs and clothing to suite particular scenes or locations.

I am considering Magic Sculpt as there is a distributor near me and I can get a pound of the stuff for $15. I heard their new formulation does not go bad like other epoxy putty brands.

Thanks again, I knew this was the place to ask.

WarrenB Inactive Member22 Dec 2011 10:05 a.m. PST


If the price of milliput was a factor, maybe look at a more local plumbing putty like Rezolin or Kneadatite A+B sometime in the future. (They look and sound fairly similar can anyone confirm if they act that way too?) Standard milliput is cheap'n'cheerful here in it's native Blighty, but the price per weight gets pushed up a fair bit, over your side.

I heard their new formulation does not go bad like other epoxy putty brands.

I have a bit of yellow skin on some apoxie sculpt, but the stuff's years old and the skin doesn't seem to affect it too badly.

Warren B.

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