Help support TMP


"What type putty/filler to use please???" Topic


8 Posts

All members in good standing are free to post here. Opinions expressed here are solely those of the posters, and have not been cleared with nor are they endorsed by The Miniatures Page.

Please do not post offers to buy and sell on the main forum.

For more information, see the TMP FAQ.


Back to the Spaceship Gaming Message Board

Back to the Pre-Paint Preparation Message Board


Areas of Interest

General
Science Fiction

Featured Hobby News Article


Featured Link


Featured Ruleset


Featured Showcase Article

GF9 Fire and Explosion Markers

Looking for a way to mark explosions or fire?


Featured Workbench Article

Forest Bases on a Budget

Holy Roman Emperor Joseph III Fezian shows us that you don't need money to have great bases.


Featured Profile Article

GameCon '98

The Editor tries out this first-year gaming convention in the San Francisco Bay Area (California).


Featured Book Review


2,031 hits since 8 Jul 2011
©1994-2026 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?


TMP logo

Membership

Please sign in to your membership account, or, if you are not yet a member, please sign up for your free membership account.
thedrake08 Jul 2011 9:31 a.m. PST

Need some help please.

Will need some type of putty or filler to use on some various resin minis that require assembly.

What do folks here recommend for use?

Also any instructions or technique tips would be helpful too please.

Thanks,
Mark

WarrenB08 Jul 2011 12:34 p.m. PST

The stuff that I have most experience with would be stuff like milliput, magic sculp or apoxie sculpt. (I've no idea about Squadron Green, Tamiya, etc. so I'll leave it to others to sing their praises) All three are soft; should stick well in gaps (especially milliput); are slightly water-soluble so can be smoothed down with water before curing; and are strong and easily scraped and sanded down after curing.

Magic sculp and apoxie sculpt (or other Aves Studio putties) would probably be more user-friendly right off the bat. Milliput might take some getting used to for beginners. It can create a bit of mess in the hands of the unwary.

-----
Warren B.
minisculpture.co.uk

Personal logo miniMo Supporting Member of TMP08 Jul 2011 1:48 p.m. PST

For most every filler job, I use the super cheap Testors contour putty. Sealed with a thin layer of CA glue to toughen it up.

Cosmic Reset08 Jul 2011 2:11 p.m. PST

I use Bondo automotive glazing putty. Apply in thin layers, let dry, sand/wetsand as needed.

28mmMan09 Jul 2011 7:44 a.m. PST

Hmmm I suspect you are dealing with gaming miniatures rather than 1/6th types so this is interesting.

1. Testors contour (not the model masters red…yikes) basic is easy to use, does not stink too much, and cleans up fairly well.

Use in tiny batches, do not smooth with open skin finger unless coated in oil or petro-jelly as it will stick (usually smooth with a q-tip dipped in nail polish remover to get smooth surface), and build up slowly or you will be sanding and can lose detail quickly.

2. Bondo…same as above but the two part nature can lead to slower/faster cure depending on the mix ratio, does have some smell, is easy to use/misuse, is cheap in the long run because it is in bulk compared to small tube putty…depends on how much you have to do…is quite handy to have around if making terrain for building up and earth to structure "soil/mud/etc."

3. Super glue + talc powder…for small gaps I use super glue is small touches and dust with talc which instantly coats with a surface cure…but I usually use this for larger build ups because it allows me to move on in a second rather than wait 3-5 minutes, which is not a big deal unless you are making hundreds of contact connections; 100 contacts without talc 300-500 minutes (5-8hrs) compared to 100 contacts with talc 300-500 seconds (5-8mins)…I almost always hit a super glue joint with a talc dusting, this also helps against runs and drips.

gweirda09 Jul 2011 8:55 p.m. PST

General comment: No matter the filler, be aware of the difference (if any) in hardness between the filler and the surrounding original material. Any subsequent filing/sanding will need to consider it if an even joint is desired.

Also: I second all the 'many thin layers' recommendations above.

thedrake09 Jul 2011 11:21 p.m. PST

Wow! Thanks for all the great suggestions. I have quite a few resin minis needing assembly so much appreciated for all the tips.

laptot19 Mar 2012 11:14 a.m. PST

I like the bondo scratch paste. Cheap and easy to find It can be thinned with acitone and brushed on. Smells, but not bad. I apply it with fingers, it wears off or cleans with acitone.

You can harden Bondo after it dries by saturating it with super thin CA.

Sorry - only verified members can post on the forums.