
"What type putty/filler to use please???" Topic
8 Posts
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| thedrake | 08 Jul 2011 9:31 a.m. PST |
Need some help please. Will need some type of putty or filler to use on some various resin minis that require assembly. What do folks here recommend for use? Also any instructions or technique tips would be helpful too please. Thanks, Mark |
| WarrenB | 08 Jul 2011 12:34 p.m. PST |
The stuff that I have most experience with would be stuff like milliput, magic sculp or apoxie sculpt. (I've no idea about Squadron Green, Tamiya, etc. so I'll leave it to others to sing their praises) All three are soft; should stick well in gaps (especially milliput); are slightly water-soluble so can be smoothed down with water before curing; and are strong and easily scraped and sanded down after curing. Magic sculp and apoxie sculpt (or other Aves Studio putties) would probably be more user-friendly right off the bat. Milliput might take some getting used to for beginners. It can create a bit of mess in the hands of the unwary. ----- Warren B. minisculpture.co.uk |
miniMo  | 08 Jul 2011 1:48 p.m. PST |
For most every filler job, I use the super cheap Testors contour putty. Sealed with a thin layer of CA glue to toughen it up. |
| Cosmic Reset | 08 Jul 2011 2:11 p.m. PST |
I use Bondo automotive glazing putty. Apply in thin layers, let dry, sand/wetsand as needed. |
| 28mmMan | 09 Jul 2011 7:44 a.m. PST |
Hmmm I suspect you are dealing with gaming miniatures rather than 1/6th types so this is interesting. 1. Testors contour (not the model masters red
yikes) basic is easy to use, does not stink too much, and cleans up fairly well. Use in tiny batches, do not smooth with open skin finger unless coated in oil or petro-jelly as it will stick (usually smooth with a q-tip dipped in nail polish remover to get smooth surface), and build up slowly or you will be sanding and can lose detail quickly. 2. Bondo
same as above but the two part nature can lead to slower/faster cure depending on the mix ratio, does have some smell, is easy to use/misuse, is cheap in the long run because it is in bulk compared to small tube putty
depends on how much you have to do
is quite handy to have around if making terrain for building up and earth to structure "soil/mud/etc." 3. Super glue + talc powder
for small gaps I use super glue is small touches and dust with talc which instantly coats with a surface cure
but I usually use this for larger build ups because it allows me to move on in a second rather than wait 3-5 minutes, which is not a big deal unless you are making hundreds of contact connections; 100 contacts without talc 300-500 minutes (5-8hrs) compared to 100 contacts with talc 300-500 seconds (5-8mins)
I almost always hit a super glue joint with a talc dusting, this also helps against runs and drips. |
| gweirda | 09 Jul 2011 8:55 p.m. PST |
General comment: No matter the filler, be aware of the difference (if any) in hardness between the filler and the surrounding original material. Any subsequent filing/sanding will need to consider it if an even joint is desired. Also: I second all the 'many thin layers' recommendations above. |
| thedrake | 09 Jul 2011 11:21 p.m. PST |
Wow! Thanks for all the great suggestions. I have quite a few resin minis needing assembly so much appreciated for all the tips. |
| laptot | 19 Mar 2012 11:14 a.m. PST |
I like the bondo scratch paste. Cheap and easy to find It can be thinned with acitone and brushed on. Smells, but not bad. I apply it with fingers, it wears off or cleans with acitone. You can harden Bondo after it dries by saturating it with super thin CA. |
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