| Karl von Hessen | 27 Feb 2011 3:17 p.m. PST |
I have some SAW figs with straw hats that have mold lines intersecting the weave pattern at odd angles so you can't "blend" them in. Any sugesstions" Also, I've been using Dremel diamond grinding bits in a pinvice to get at hard spots like drum heads, brims of hats, etc, that files/knives can't get into or around. Any suggetioms/tips on those?
Thanks Karl |
combatpainter  | 27 Feb 2011 4:57 p.m. PST |
Tough one. Been there and done that. |
 John the OFM  | 27 Feb 2011 5:15 p.m. PST |
Sadly, I think you just have to grit your teeth and realize that the only one who will notice this is the painter.
On the tabletop, these flaws will not be noticed.
The only one besides yourself who will notice are the moroms who hold the mini at the end of their nose and sniff contemptuously. They should be shot, anyway, and who cares what they think? After these words of encvouragement, I would file the mold line smooth, and see if I can etch the detail in with an X-acto blade or an awl. Yeah. I know that pewter is a bitch to sculpt.  |
| Evil Bobs Miniature Painting | 27 Feb 2011 5:57 p.m. PST |
What John said. Can I agree with him yet or is it still a dawghousable offense? |
| Chortle | 27 Feb 2011 6:28 p.m. PST |
I feel your pain. I have some tanks with a mold 'step' across the zimmermit anti mine paste. |
| Grunt1861 | 28 Feb 2011 12:56 a.m. PST |
A couple of ideas that have provided me limited success are to file, sand, or riff the offending lines. Then use either a two part putty or something close and re-sculpt.
I used this technique on her hair as there was a mold line across her head that bisected and couldn't be hidden.
link BTW, I don't agree with John. If I knew it was there and I didn't fix it, it would haunt me. |
| ScoutII | 28 Feb 2011 8:29 a.m. PST |
Got a picture of the actual spot in question? While it takes a bit of courage…go after them with jeweler's points and a roto-tool (Dremel or other). You can get into the small crevices and remove the mold lines with them just fine. The ones that I use for this type of work are rubber that have an abrasive embedded in them. You can shape them into a point…ball…or whatever shape is most useful to get in there and they do a wonder on white metal. Remove as much of the line as you can with a set of proper dental tools (the sharp ones that are designed to carve wax denture molds…not the dull ones you get from most hobby stores). Then go ahead and use the point to clean up what is left. link – Picks link – Points That is for most of the stuff…and it works well (as long as you don't have a bigger problem like mold misalignment). Other handy tools though include bead reamers, micro-burrs and even wire brushes…all chucked into your favorite roto-tool. The pick set is actually going to do most the work though. Be careful, a slip with them can really do some damage. |
| Karl von Hessen | 28 Feb 2011 5:22 p.m. PST |
ScoutII, sorry no camera. I know the bits of which you speak, I have chucked them in my pinvice with good results at times. The rubber ones (again in a pinvice) work well on areas like faces and muscles, I doubt I can muster the courage to use the rotary tool itself so I have me to blame!
Thanks to all for the replies and the ideas.
BTW, being new to TMP, why is it a "dawghousable offense" to agree with John the OFM. |
| ScoutII | 28 Feb 2011 7:19 p.m. PST |
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| Muah ha ha | 01 Mar 2011 3:26 p.m. PST |
I have the answer. Perfection is not to be expected in this universe. |
