"Using Micron Pens to Paint Pupils?" Topic

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I suddenly got an idea. Has anyone tried using Micron pens to paint pupils of eyes on 28mm figures? If possible, any suggestions on what size pen to use?

In theory, this seems like it would be better than using the tip of a paint brush, which can give me fits. I like to paint the eye lids so they cover the top and bottoms of the pupil, trying to avoid the bug-eyes.

It does work, I prefer the "brush" tipped pens for it – because the tip is smaller than even the 005 pens and you can make them very small.

How large is a pupil? Dilated? Constricted? Or do you mean the iris? A human iris can range from 11 to 14mm, averaging 12mm. At 1:56 scale for 28mm, you'd need a 0.2mm pen. So an 005 Micron might work; that's the smallest.

Allen

Yup, I've done it and it worked out fine.

I also use an 005 Micron to do the panel lines, etc. on 1/285 aircraft. Just did the checkerboards on the noses of some 357th FG Mustangs the other day.

I've used micron pens to add details on figures, but found the ink didn't flow well onto my figures. To solve the problem, I dip the micron pen into a pool of ink and apply it. I couldn't tell you why it worked, but it did for me.

Good idea!

I've used them. They work but are hard on the pens and they wear out quickly. (005 is ideal.)

A brush is better for fine work, but for armies, the Micron pen is a bit quicker. You can also draw eyebrows, mustaches, or touch up light paint on a dark color mistakes quickly. I'll even use it to shade a bright figure with too little detail.

I've used them to do some pretty cool shield designs too. Make sure to seal them right away so they don't get smudged.

This has been my S.O.P. for eyes for a few years now.

I find it's a lot easier to control than a brush tip, and not subject to the vagaries of paint-mix and tip-loading.

Using this technique, I find you can pick and choose the direction the eyes are 'looking' very easily.

Religon is right about the pen wearing out quickly… dunno why, but they don't like it.

Great tip from mckrok with the ink though – I'm giving that a go.

Do you find you need to gloss coat before using the pen, in order to get a surface it "likes"?

Doug

I don't coat the figures. While I haven't tired, I would think that it would decrease the quality of the mark.

I have a moderately successful technique after a pen begins to wear out (20-30 figures), of dipping it into a watered-down dark brown paint and getting another 20 figures marked. The mark is less crisp than a fresh pen though.

I use them. They work great.

I've used .005's to do pupils on BloodBowl figs -- no problem. And lots of outlining too.

You don't need a gloss finish to write on. In fact, if you are drawing on a gloss finsih, be very careful about handling the figure for a few days -- it's prone to smudging. This seems to take longer to set on a gloss surface. Once you varnish it, there's no problem. And these inks don't run under a spray sealant like sharpies would.

I've been using a .005 and a .01 Micron Pen for ages. They are great for quick stuff like that. For more detailed work I use a selection of Koh0I-Nor Rapidograph pens, the sort with the refillable well so you can mix your own colors.

I used to do this but went through them so quickly that I just gave up and went back to the brush.

I've used them for years with great success. Oddly only two days ago did I have my first ever smudging problem with some intricate animal glyphs I drew on a barbarian. Easily fixed and back on plan.

You do go through pens quickly but for me the time saved is wotrh it. I buy them in bulk from Dick Blick or other such online suppliers.

I've also been using this technique for quite a while.

It's especially helpful when doing large number of figures.

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