"Testors Glosscote stripping paint?" Topic

I am having a problem with Testors Glosscote (in a jar, not a spray can) stripping or cracking paint. Anyone else run into this? I am using Vallejo acrylics, then Army Painter Strong tone for shading. I then applied the Testors Glosscote selectively in areas where I wanted to place decals to give them a smooth surface and in one case had top layer of paint strip off completely (a camo color on top of the base coat) and in another case I had the paint crack (looks like shingles) where I painted the glosscote. The paint was dry to the touch, but had been painted on somewhere from one day prior to an hour or so prior. What is up and what are my options from here?

*The crosspost to "German Wargaming" was a mistake….but the miniatures in question were German WWII vehicles, so maybe that counts?

I had a similar experience. I believe two things may be in play. The 1st, I am sure you washed the minis, is that the minis my had some release agent still on them and had not been cleaned of. The other and I think you answered the question. The paint was not completely dry. One has to be very careful when Glosscote is put on a mini. It will soften acrylic paint. I inadvertently touched a miniature right after I had sprayed it with Glosscote. The paint just kind of mushed away, almost as if you were pushing snow. I ended uo stripping the miniature and painting it over.

Mike

Mike

I've had testors brush on remove paint before.
I use spray – alternatively if you want a nice gloss for pre decal applications – try humbrol

I normally would use spray, but we are getting blasted by a blizzard right now so that is not an option.

How does what affect things? The blizzard? Well, I obviously can't go outside and spray!

Yah – you have to remember that the solvent in enamels, lacquers and similar paints is basically a paint stripper. If you paint it on roughly to a relatively soft paint like an acrylic – you will push it off (seems to be more prone to happening when you don't want it to happen than when you do want it to happen – like when actually stripping the minis).

When I am planning on mixing those types of paints with acrylics – I like to let them cure for at least 2 or 3 days. They are "dry" long before then, but the acrylics continue to harden for quite a while after they are dry to the touch.

Golden recommends waiting between 1-3 days on porous substrates like canvas and as long as several weeks for non-porous substrates before you apply oils (which enamels are…and lacquers are effectively close to for this purpose) over acrylics. If you want to work faster than that…gentle brush strokes with a soft bristle brush. The cheap ones that you find near a lot of model paints are better suited for scrubbing toilets than applying paint.

I am curious what type of primer you used under it though. I have had paint slough off if I don't give it time enough to set up…but the wrinkle is a new one for me.

I used Krylon Indoor/Outdoor Spray primer. Then I painted a base coat of Vallejo Acrylic. Then I brushed on Army Painter Strong Tone shader, followed by several subsequent dry brushings using Vallejo paints again. Finally, I applied Testors Glosscote to the areas I wanted to apply decals and thats when I ran into problems.

I has the testors brush on DULLCOTE strip my paint off too!

Great product in spray form but seems to be useless in liquid …