| Count Belisarius | 13 Jan 2011 5:57 p.m. PST |
Just wondering how people using vallejo do their flesh tones for 15/28mm. Until now I've done a base of one of the flesh colours then a flesh/brown wash. However no I need to match someone else's style where they do a reddy-brown and then paint the highlights/muscle areas in one of the fleshes. I can;t seem to find a base 'brown' that works right with the dark flesh or flat flesh. So, just wondering what other people do? Cheers Andy |
 Extra Crispy  | 13 Jan 2011 6:14 p.m. PST |
I have used a variety of V browns highlighted with flesh and I like the results. Most commonly I have used: 929 Light Brown
818 Red Leather
982 Cavalry Brown Just depends on the look you want. |
| idontbelieveit | 13 Jan 2011 6:22 p.m. PST |
When I used to use Vallejo I used Red Leather. |
 Flashman14  | 13 Jan 2011 7:38 p.m. PST |
Lately I use Brown Rose 803, then go to Vallejo Model Color Dwarf Flesh, then Elf Flesh finished with GW Ogryn Flesh Wash. This is lit imperfectly but you get the idea: link |
| DeanMoto | 13 Jan 2011 8:15 p.m. PST |
I've used Medium Flesh mixed with varying amounts of white. Then apply the Dark Flesh Ink/Stain. Sometimes I add Black Ink/Stain to the Dark Flesh. Seems to allow less staining as the darker mix is more apparent in the recesses. Maybe I'll go with a light Flesh in the future when the bottle runs out, as I always use stain over it anyway. The reason I went with Medium Flesh initially was I used to use it watered down over white primed flesh. This was a sort of wash/stain in itself; but I've since only gone with the method formerly described. Dean |
| Sundance | 13 Jan 2011 10:16 p.m. PST |
I used dark flesh, then give it a beige brown wash and I usually wash the entire fig with either a black ink wash or a ss camoflage black-brown wash. I think that last one is now called something else to avoid offending sensitive types with the reference to ss. |
| BlackSmoke | 14 Jan 2011 3:18 a.m. PST |
For faces I normally use GW Dwarf flesh with a Devlan Mud wash and Elf Flesh highlight, but for a couple of gladiators I used Vallejo Cork Brown mixed with Chocolate Brown for shade and Flat Flesh for highlight. The results are here: link |
| A Twiningham | 14 Jan 2011 7:15 a.m. PST |
Brown Rose and Brown Sand (IIRC) are both good base or mid tones. |
| Striker | 14 Jan 2011 7:24 a.m. PST |
I use some of the combinations from this site. link |
| Gathrawn50 | 14 Jan 2011 8:36 a.m. PST |
link
link I was looking at the colors here since they are currently on sale and it struck me, if you scroll down the page, how red the flesh "triad" was. The flesh "shadow" color was very red to me. Just above that is the flesh base and flesh hilight. Using these in a 3 shade layering may get the effect you want. Good price. I will probably pick some up, but i prefer the reaper flesh colors. Mongo. |
| Count Belisarius | 14 Jan 2011 9:24 a.m. PST |
Some useful stuff there and some good alternative base colour suggestions. I've alway just used washes in the past but I quite like some of the effects I'm getting in 15mm. I have RSM 25mm Austrians to paint soon and will need a good way to do the flesh. Thanks for all that. I'll post some pics soon. Cheers Andy |
| Swampster | 14 Jan 2011 10:52 a.m. PST |
There are all sorts of suggestions here
link |
| Count Belisarius | 14 Jan 2011 12:11 p.m. PST |
I've got a few pics posted on my blog here: link The bulk of the figures are by Conflict in Colour but the casualty figures and the guy in the last two holding the severed head are my attempts at matching the style/technique and the cause of this discussion. Cheers Andy |
| Striker | 14 Jan 2011 3:27 p.m. PST |
I have RSM 25mm Austrians I'm doing RSM Russians and I like to do a basecoat, Vallejo wash, then highlight. When I was doing a base-shade-highlight I was getting too mixed because of the finer detail. On figures with more "umph" to them I'm able to do extra steps, but the folds & detail of RSM makes it a challenge for me to use the same process. |
