"Gluing spears" Topic

During a game the other night we had some problems with spears flying. Not in a good way. I tried gluing them with gorilla super glue and I've tried using other brands (Zap for instance) but i still have the same problem. These darned spears keep popping off! So what is the secret? How do you keep wire spears on the figure? These are Essex 15mm figures with open palm. So drilling is not an option.

Thanks,

John

I've had my best luck with epoxy. The combination of small surface area and low sheer strength of super glue will give you problems. I have also from time to time wrapped a loop of fine copper wire around the shaft and wrist to reinforce the joint, a little paint and you never see it. You can use the super glue to tack the spear in place while the epoxy sets
-Ray

Gorilla Glue *brand* super glue--not original Gorilla Glue--*is* my solution. It contains rubber particles; these prevent the shearing typical of normal CAs. I've had no problems since going to it. Make sure you have a clean metal to metal bond, though. Make sure to maximize the contact surface, too; filing the palm of an open hand with a round microfile to fit the spear is a good idea.

Allen

RAF,

Is this a two part epoxy or is it a single part similar to a tube glue? How gooey is it? I don't think I can work thin copper around the wrists for a brace.

Allen,

I've used Gorilla Super Glue to good success when basing miniatures (wider surface area). I suspect that part of your better results with spears is because you mainly use 28mm figures. Larger hands=bigger surface area. I'll try again, concentrating on cleaning the palms and spear before applying the glue. I'll even add an extra drop over the spear when it is set for extra strength.

Thanks,

John

If I am glueing spears ( I did a lot of hoplites) I try to go for a vertical spear, so I can anchor end of the spear on the base, so there are two contact points ( hand and base) which makes it a lot sturdier that the angled forward spear. It depends on figure pose and intended spaer lenght though.

phil

That's true about 28s; more contact. Phil's point about trying to get a second contact point (either on the base, or against the body or leg (or even the rim of the shield) is good.

That's why I prefer more sedate poses. But a lot of figures have their weapons wielded wildly, and can't be attached well.

Allen

I find you can reinforce glue joins with a sealer--I use future floor wax and it seems to help, although stuff does still pop off.

I use a 2-part 5-minute epoxy. When I use wire, I use very thin copper wire, usually scavenged from old electronic components – especially small electrical motors. It's about as thick as sewing thread. Phil, I agree that when it's possible, it is great to be able to attach the end of the spear to the base as well. Allen, I've become a big fan of the Gorilla super glue as well.
-Ray

Any super-glue will fix the spear to the figure, but any pressure will pop it off. Try taking a pair of needle nose pliers or heavy duty tweezers and gently closing the open grip around the spear after gluing. The result is a more realistic grip on the spear and adds to the strength of the bond.

I glue them on before priming & painting generally & dont have this problem, shields on the other hand I glue on after painting & are a pain unless you use two part epoxy for strength & cynoacrilate to tack them in place. For 15mm you can get away with super glue if you glue the shield on before varnishing the figure this way the varnish reinforces the bond.

The trick is to drill out the hands so that the rod sides through the metal. Only the smallest shot of thin CA is required to hold the spear. It is also possible to use a jeweler's saw to remove metal from the palm if you want retain detal of fingers that do not completely wrap around the shaft. Use a small piece of wood to crimp the hand around the spear.

I agree with laptot. The key (I think) is to treat it like doing a silver soldering job, where there is no "flow", and make sure there's a good, close fitting mechanical joint.