Cheomesh  | 29 Sep 2010 7:40 a.m. PST |
What's the difference between the regular orange tube of "Cement" and the "Non-toxic Cement" that comes in the powder blue tube? M. |
 Pictors Studio  | 29 Sep 2010 7:49 a.m. PST |
I'm not certain but I would guess that the first one is poisonous and the second one is not. |
 Jovian1  | 29 Sep 2010 8:58 a.m. PST |
 – what pictors said! 
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 John the OFM | 29 Sep 2010 9:22 a.m. PST |
One is for huffing and gluing models together, and the other is dabbed behind the ears for a sexy fruity scent. Quite simple, really. Let's face it. If the non-toxic one worked at all, it would have replaced the evil one long ago. |
| Top Gun Ace | 29 Sep 2010 9:40 a.m. PST |
The toxic stuff works better. |
 richarDISNEY | 29 Sep 2010 9:56 a.m. PST |
The red has Toluene in it. It "melts" the plastic together, hence the 'gluing' effect. Not only are the fumes from the 'glue' toxic, but so is the bonding effect of the 'melting' plastics that can give off fumes too. Use in a ventilated area, and you will be safe.
Also great for huffing. YouTube link Not that I would recommend huffing it. You'd look like Patrick Tribbet… picture The Blue has a non-toxic version of Toluene. It still "glues" but due to the not-toluene, it takes a really long time for the plastics to bond. If you are worried about safety, use the blue.
If you need to 'glue' fast, go with the red.
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 elsyrsyn | 29 Sep 2010 10:07 a.m. PST |
If you are worried about safety, use the red and a respirator mask. The blue doesn't work worh a darn. Better yet, use a liquid glue that works even better (and a respirator mask) – Tenax 7R is good, as are the Faller and Testors liquids. Doug |
| ArchitectsofWar | 29 Sep 2010 10:31 a.m. PST |
I highly reccomend the Testors Model Master liquid cement. Its much easier to control and works very well. |
| Garand | 29 Sep 2010 12:14 p.m. PST |
The Testors liquid stuff is MEK. It's also slower acting than either Tenax or (my favorite) PLastruct Plastic weld. Personally I use Testors for most of my grunt work (it's cheaper), and use Plastruct for areas I need a faster bond (especially useful for figures!). I've found for figure assembly, if you brush a little testors on the mating area of both parts, then wait a few seconds, it "grips" better as the solvent has more time to work… One other note about the tube cements: what they are is a plastic solvent suspended in a polymer to retard evaporation. This is supposed to make it easier to use, however, the polymer has no significant bonding properties on its own. So if the plastic parts are not pressed together properly (i.e. being held together by the polymer) over time it degrades, becomes brittle, and parts start falling off. I personally find liquid cements are much easier to use, since there is no disadvantage from the polymer… Damon. |
| CmdrKiley | 29 Sep 2010 12:17 p.m. PST |
I have never found the Blue Non-Toxic stuff to work at all. If you feel you that working with the toxic stuff is too dangerous, stick to Snap-Fit models. |
| XRaysVision | 29 Sep 2010 1:30 p.m. PST |
No need to go all paranoid. The amount of fumes produced during a building session (a couple of hours?) is not significant. However, the effects ARE cumulative. Ventilation is required. A ceiling fan and a cracked window is plenty as it will move the fumes away from your nose. Unless you live in a very confined space, like an old refrigerator box, the concentration of fumes (given use of said fan and window) will not be high enough to do anything. |
| miniMo | 29 Sep 2010 1:33 p.m. PST |
The orange tube makes an indestructable bond. I stepped on a model once and the jionts remained intact while the plastic broke outside the joints! The blue is pretty worthless. The Model Masters is in the middle. Also slower setting. But I've been won over to it because of the long needle nose tip which is great. |
