Extra Crispy | 19 Jun 2010 8:16 p.m. PST |
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quidveritas | 19 Jun 2010 10:37 p.m. PST |
Good advice all. I would only say that I turn the painter loose. I tell him to do the best job he can for the money negotiated. He picks the colors and what ever cool stuff he puts into the figure. I feel like I come out a bit better if this kind of artistic flexibility is allowed. If you negotiate every detail, it isn't as fun for the artist and this in turn means you get exactly what you wanted -- no more. You should always do your own basing if you paint at all. You will want the bases to match regardless of who paints the figs. mjc |
Chortle | 19 Jun 2010 10:48 p.m. PST |
Good advice. Nice to see you back on TMP. |
aecurtis | 20 Jun 2010 7:14 a.m. PST |
Interesting that you stress providing exact painting guidance to the "professional" painter, assuming that he has no knowledge of what the subject should look like. Having seen some recent examples posted here, I guess that's sound advice. Sad, though. Allen |
GildasFacit | 20 Jun 2010 11:33 a.m. PST |
Why should one assume that a pro painter has a comprehensive knowledge of every period that interests you ? Or that the sources that YOU consider definitive are the ones he/she has ? Consider the cost of a library big and detailed enough to cover the uniforms of just the horse & musket period – that is going to be a huge investment for most of the one-man shows that are the norm in painting services. |
Extra Crispy | 20 Jun 2010 12:09 p.m. PST |
The notion of "what something should look like" is a lot more complex as a little careful thought will show. What color is a wizard or a dragon? How about a Space Marine? Quite a lot of gaming is non-historical so there is no authority to refer to. And even a historical period may have no strict answer – Samurai, Gladiators and many naval periods are obvious examples. Even the simple color of "what blue should I paint my Prussians" is not a simple answer. What scale of figure? In addition, are you going for strict realism or overall impression? My Union ACW, for example, are far brighter than many people like. But a "realistic" blue looks black 99% of the time and i want my Union boys to look blue. In the end, if you don't provide direction on what you want you can't complain at what you get back. Regards, Mark "Extra Crispy" Severin ScaleCreep.com FlagshipGames.com DeepFriedHappyMice.com |
combatpainter | 20 Jun 2010 5:10 p.m. PST |
Best way to make sure you get color you want is to send the paint bottles like one guy for me. He then let me keep it. That was nice! |
GildasFacit | 21 Jun 2010 3:14 a.m. PST |
Colour matching is often a difficult problem and samples are always the best way to achieve accuracy. My problems have been in explaining to a customer that the colour he sees on his screen may not be the same tint I see on mine and, without a sample, he is still taking some risks of not getting quite what he wants. Colour names are another problem – what colour exactly is 'carmine' or 'turquoise' or, even worse 'khaki'. Many people do not realise how wide the variations can be for what they assume is a fixed tint. |
Extra Crispy | 21 Jun 2010 6:08 a.m. PST |
Great point. When I just say "red" I know that can mean quite a bit. I'll often use the Vallejo colors as a "common language." That way even if there's minor variation from bottle to bottle, at least it will be pretty close! |
quidveritas | 21 Jun 2010 8:26 p.m. PST |
I dunno, If you want Gauls painted and every one has to be different, . . . I say you turn the guy loose. mjc |