combatpainter  | 21 Feb 2010 12:35 a.m. PST |
I have a gun placement that seemed very slippery when I got a hold of it. More slippery than normal. I soaked it in hot soapy water and looked ok until I got to painting it. There are two spots that no matter how many times I go over them it repels the paint. Yes, it repels the paint. I am thinking of filing one spot on the outside and filling the other with plaster to mask it cause it is on the inside of a corner that a file won;t get to. Will filing work on this problem??? |
dampfpanzerwagon  | 21 Feb 2010 2:44 a.m. PST |
Try Makes-paint-stick, a UK product that is used as an undercoat for plastic garden furniture. Failing that try a car repair store and ask for plastic bumper spray paint undercoat. Both should work. (Another wash in warm soapy water prior to spraying – won't harm.) Tony dampfpanzerwagon.blogspot.com |
aecurtis  | 21 Feb 2010 3:41 a.m. PST |
You bought a Flames of War artillery boxed set, it seems. Allen |
| hanibalgreg | 21 Feb 2010 4:32 a.m. PST |
I have been painting a lot of Flames of War figures, and I have found that if I wash and then prime with a cheap oil based spray paint it works fine. Give that a try and see if it sollves your problem. Greg |
| Evil Bobs Miniature Painting | 21 Feb 2010 4:50 a.m. PST |
Put a dab of super glue on the spots you're having problems with. Resin's a nice material in that it is durable and holds detail well but it can be difficult to paint sometimes. |
| Cosmic Reset | 21 Feb 2010 6:31 a.m. PST |
I would suggest using one of two methods to fix the problem. First, you could wash the part with a solvent called Carbochlor, available at many hardware stores. Locally Ace hardware is a source. Tested the solvent on the bottom of the casting to make sure that it does not attack it, and if not, scrub the appropriate areas briefly with a toothbrush. The solvent is not good for you, so take appropriate precations, but it will remove any mold relaese that I am aware of. Second, get a fine grit sanding stick, and wetsand the bad areas of the casting. Squadron makes a line of these sanding sticks, maybe 5 inches long, have a flexable plastic core, with thin layer of foam and wet/dry sandpaper on each side. After wet sanding the casting, wash in warm soapy water before painting. |
| vogless | 21 Feb 2010 6:56 a.m. PST |
I was having massive issues getting primer on my JTFM models. Same kind of thing. Washed it multiple times and the paint just ran off. Jeff (I think) suggested I douse the thing in lighter fluid, then give it a few baths. Crazy as it sounds, it's been working well for me. Just don't do it near open flames! |
combatpainter  | 21 Feb 2010 7:09 a.m. PST |
You bought a Flames of War artillery boxed set, it seems. Yes, someone else's but yes. I can re-soak it cause it is only two small spots and I did some major work on it already. Will post pics. I will use the super glue for the interior cavity. For the out side I will try sanding the spot it is on an edge and then some super glue. This should do it. It is the gun placement that has a net in one corner some wood planks in the other and sandbags on both sides. It will hold a German 105. |
| ming31 | 21 Feb 2010 8:41 a.m. PST |
Could be the resin is Leeching . Some cheap two part resins are cut with #2 fuel oil . if the resin was not mixed very throughly the uncatalyased oil leeches out . They have a very strong fuel smell even before sanding . Soak in Lystoil over nite Scrub throughly let dry . then use a good bonding primer as told above. |
| Craig Grady | 21 Feb 2010 9:40 a.m. PST |
If its really small spots you could try drilling out the bad areas and green stuffing the holes |
| Mlatch221 | 21 Feb 2010 10:43 a.m. PST |
I picked this idea up from one of the guys on the Maschinen Krieger forum but haven't yet used it myself. Try soaking the parts in white vinegar. I've heard of various other suggestions such as denatured alcohol, Simple Green, the purple degreaser that used to be sold under the Castrol brand, Westley's Bleech White (sic) tire cleaner, just to name a few. Vinegar sounds like an idea worth trying because it's fairly cheap and seemingly fairly benign, aside from the smell. In the case I referred to above, the person had already tried some other methods to clean some resin castings that wouldn't even hold a primer with a fairly strong solvent base (Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer). The white vinegar was the only thing that worked for him. |
| Plynkes | 21 Feb 2010 11:41 a.m. PST |
I had some resin tankettes that did this when I tried to paint them with a brush. So in desperation I sprayed 'em with GW spray black. That stuck to the s all right, so I was able to continue from there. |
| vogless | 21 Feb 2010 5:27 p.m. PST |
I did try cleaning/soaking in Pinesol. It didn't help the paint stick. It did take the paint off the 3x's I had to repaint the PZ IV that wouldn't take the paint. I had doubts on the lighter fluid, but it works perfect for me. |
| Ijumpajav | 22 Feb 2010 5:56 a.m. PST |
My vote would be for Castrol Super Clean. Having had the same problem with a few Grey resin pieces
This was the only thing that worked for me. |
| Jeff at JTFM Enterprises | 23 Feb 2010 3:04 p.m. PST |
The important thing when painting resin. After washing it do NOT use an acrylic primer. A fellow that paints alot of our vehicles uses an enamel primer (light dusting) and has no problems. You can also use a plasticoat primer. Cheers |