Cacique Caribe | 20 Jan 2010 11:00 p.m. PST |
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Space Monkey | 20 Jan 2010 11:27 p.m. PST |
It's a nice drawing
doesn't seem like it would be all that hard to model up. |
Cacique Caribe | 21 Jan 2010 12:42 a.m. PST |
I can't wait to try. Fingers crossed. Dan |
Top Gun Ace | 21 Jan 2010 2:38 a.m. PST |
A nice selection of weapons. How much for the 'zooka? |
Cacique Caribe | 21 Jan 2010 4:39 a.m. PST |
Because it is apparently build out of metal scraps and not wood, I'm wondering if I have enough textures in styrene sheets to pull it off. I will dive into my styrene bits bin today and see what I can come up with. Dan |
Battle Works Studios | 21 Jan 2010 6:06 a.m. PST |
It's nice, but aside from the weapons and pointy supports it's not particularly scifi to me. You can find cobbled-up shacks, lean-tos, and shanty towns all over the world right now. Which actually increases its utility, I guess. |
Cacique Caribe | 21 Jan 2010 6:09 a.m. PST |
Battle Works Studio, you are right. I should start with something like this (minus what is supposed to be lumber sections and plywood): link I've tried Evergreen and Plastruct and cannot find the following . . . Styrene rods with a telescoping pipe look to them. Any suggestions? Thanks. Dan |
Sloppypainter | 21 Jan 2010 6:35 a.m. PST |
For the telescoping look I use aluminum tubes sold in many hobby stores. They come in a variety of sizes
just slide them one into the other and add a drop of superglue to bond. They cut easily and can be scored and snapped like styrene if you're careful. The smallest size I use for blow-guns for 28mm Amazonians or lost world types. Pete |
Altius | 21 Jan 2010 7:56 a.m. PST |
It shouldn't be too hard at all. I did something very similar a while back. I made a Chinese outdoor market terrain piece for the "Back of Beyond" era, which looked pretty much the same. |
Battle Works Studios | 21 Jan 2010 8:14 a.m. PST |
Yep, aluminum tubes will work for the telescoping look, and so will plastruct tubing. You just need to buy varying sizes of the stuff that can nest within each other. Easy way to do hydraulic pistons and the like. |
Jakar Nilson | 21 Jan 2010 9:39 a.m. PST |
Here's one way to make shanty towns: link |
Lapsed Pacifist | 21 Jan 2010 10:11 a.m. PST |
That remains me of the buildings in the game Borderlands, you should look it up. |
Frederick | 21 Jan 2010 11:49 a.m. PST |
Just saw District 9 – now that's a shanty town! |
Feet up now | 21 Jan 2010 12:57 p.m. PST |
I will second Lapsed Pacifist look up for the borderlands game.Play as the soldier if you want to do a mad max solo in the game. here is a review with plenty of screenshots. link |
28mmMan | 21 Jan 2010 3:23 p.m. PST |
Dan your telescoping problem is easy to fix. Use heat shrink tubing, cheap from the local wholesale place, about $1-2 for 3-4ft. Choose three sizes. Use a central core that just barely fits your smallest ID tube. Let us say a 3" final size is desired. 1. 3.5-4" core (to allow for setting stem) 2. 3-3.5" smallest tube (shrink and allow to cool-dip in water for a an instant set) 3. 2-2.5" mid width tube (shrink to set-cool) 4. 1-1.5" larger width tube (shrink to fit-cool) Or if you can find a size of tube that is just slightly larger than the core
use the same size tube in the 3 stages
but if you do not completely cool (dip in water-then dry) then it could start shrinking before you fix the set point. Easy. I used this technique dozens of times to build up a layer to protect a wire from friction or contact. Prime Paint And for your shacks link Sandwich a piece of paper and aluminum foil (shiny side down on paper) with a fine layer of spray adhesive (stays flexible) or a thin layer of paper glue (like the roll on type). Crimp. Let dry. Later you can use a razor or x-acto blade to pull away sections of the foil for holes and wear/tear. |
Smokey Roan | 21 Jan 2010 4:24 p.m. PST |
Mero, I would love to see your Chinese shanty market. I just made one for the Sudan. Email me at: Go Canes BA at aol dot com (I won't be a subscribed member again till after the Super Bowl) And Dan, any corrugated cardboard, or other paper/wood material, spray painted first in cheap, "Metalic" or "Silver" spray paint, then sprayed with clear acrylic matte overcoat, then washed and drybrushed with your favorite rust and weathering, will pass. And look in the baking aisle of your local grocery store. Those disposable pans and such have many textures and shapes, easily cut with scissors, and will affix to foam board with, Gator Glue. (It really works, but it technically isn't supposed to) |
Cacique Caribe | 21 Jan 2010 10:17 p.m. PST |
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Cacique Caribe | 21 Jan 2010 11:14 p.m. PST |
What do you think of this? Would a couple of Quonset Huts fit into the set up somehow? link link link link Or would they look too "WWII" in style? Thanks. Dan |
Battle Works Studios | 22 Jan 2010 9:20 a.m. PST |
Quonset huts work everywhere. Even time travellers like them, and since they tend to leave stuff behind, they're justifiable from the age of dinosaurs on up. Anyway, after rather more time spent than I'd like, I can say the project is viable: link That piece is sized for anything from 20mm to 28mm, although guys on slotta bases will tend to lack headroom. Something similar could be made in any scale from 15mm on up, and a rough representation in 6mm. Now we just need to see if there's enough interest to make it worthwhile to produce castable versions. How much would you folks pay to avoid having to do the work yourselves? |
28mmMan | 22 Jan 2010 10:27 a.m. PST |
Battle Works Pricing is a funny bit of fluff that tends to beat around in the wind, but in this fickle market one needs a starting point
when I am pricing out a sculpture project I look at the materials and labor. It is hard to work out the labor portion when looking at a product that is cast/molded but you have a good idea of how many pulls you can get with your setup. Usually I look at materials x3 as a starting point for parts (mechanical) that I cast for customers. I would piece out the items you are putting together, price out the per item, and then a package price. A fair number of us like to build with parts rather than the from scratch every time. $.35 USD of resin to make part A = $1.05 USD 5 parts A-E = ($5.25) $4.99 USD I know all of this is old hat for you, but some folks have little idea what goes into a price line
costs of sculpting, labor, resin, molds, etc. it all adds up and has to be recovered somehow. |
Cacique Caribe | 22 Jan 2010 12:57 p.m. PST |
Battle Works, OMG!!! That is absolutely fantastic!!! Really thinking of producing it? Will it be as a set, or would you sell the components so people can make their own configurations? Unbelievable. Dan PS. To bring even more attention to that awesome piece, I started this other thread: TMP link |
Battle Works Studios | 22 Jan 2010 4:31 p.m. PST |
Really thinking of producing it? Will it be as a set, or would you sell the components so people can make their own configurations? If there's enough interest, yes. We're still debating scales (15mm or 25-28mm?) and formats. Plan A: Doing them as a "block" of shanties like that with the walls as one or two units and roof panels seperate will probably run around $15 USD for 25-28mm scale, a bit less for 15mm. They'd be very easy to assemble (the roofs might not even need to be glued on to use) and we could model more details on them, but there'd only be so many types available so the degree of customization would be lower than Plan B. Plan B: We could make a small series of individual walls, each designed so that can be glued to others at various points and angles, and also offer a range of different roof panels of various sizes, shapes, and styles to go with them. This would maximize the number of unique shanties you could make, but it would require more assembly work on the part of the buyer and we'd have to leave off some details (like corner shelving or through-wall piping, etc) that we could put into the "block" models. Individual bits would obviously be cheaper than a block, but the overall cost of buying the parts to make something of an equivalent size would be a little higher, maybe reaching $20 USD or so depending on the parts involved. Either way the telescoping masts are problematic. They can either be left off entirely or modified to much shorter, solider versions that can be cast in resin, but that will change the look a lot. Alternately, we can just provide attachment points for them on the models and either include suitable lengths of plastic tubing with each kit (which will drive up costs a bit) or let you buy them yourselves. Putting them together is simple enough if you have the right sizes of tubing, and letting the buyer do so adds even more customization to the whole thing since you could decide how to vary the length of each thickness of tube showing. Feedback from any potential customers out there would, as always, be appreciated. If we make these at all, we'll be making them for you. :) |
Cacique Caribe | 22 Jan 2010 4:49 p.m. PST |
I would probably place the shanty structures on the outer perimeter of these: picture picture I would imagine that such settlements will have dump sites with spaceship wreckage and other salvageable materials for the squatters' shanties. Dan TMP link |
Battle Works Studios | 22 Jan 2010 5:50 p.m. PST |
Oh yes, we like those too. Bit harder to produce at a reasonable cost than the shacks and shanties, though. Maybe one of these days, though. :) |
Cacique Caribe | 22 Jan 2010 6:05 p.m. PST |
Actually, adobe style buildings are much easier to scratch-build (for me, at least). Now, shanties with salvaged ship bits . . . particularly, in the awesome style you used, THAT'S where I get stumped. Shanties and really alien-looking tents with SF awnings. And I really don't understand why either. Dan |
Cacique Caribe | 04 Feb 2010 8:58 a.m. PST |
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Thesceneuk | 04 Feb 2010 10:09 a.m. PST |
I have already finished my first 2 15mm shanty buildings, and am aiming to finish another three before the end of the month. With the aim to make them available early March. Mike |
Battle Works Studios | 04 Feb 2010 11:30 a.m. PST |
Shall we race, then? You're a little ahead of me, but I've been splitting time between the 15mm and 25mm masters. Not like anyone's going to complain about having multiple choices available on the market anyway. |
Thesceneuk | 04 Feb 2010 11:50 a.m. PST |
Like your self I have been keeping an eye on a few threads. I had started one similar to yours, from the picture Dan provided. But I will change it. Splitting time. Tell me about it. Ive been trying to get my 15, 20, 25, and 28mm oil barrels finished for the last month. I hope they will be finished this weekend. TIME TIME TIME Just not enough of it. Mike |
Cacique Caribe | 04 Feb 2010 12:04 p.m. PST |
"Not like anyone's going to complain about having multiple choices available on the market anyway." Exactly. Now, get back to work! Break's over. Dan |
Thesceneuk | 04 Feb 2010 12:07 p.m. PST |
Hey Dan you will also be pleased to know that I started the first boat today. Only about 1/4 of an hour work on it at the moment , just to give me a break from other things. Mike |
Cacique Caribe | 04 Feb 2010 12:11 p.m. PST |
No more breaks! There'll be plenty of breaks once the orders start pouring in. >:) Dan PS. And where's my Scully? TMP link |
Battle Works Studios | 04 Feb 2010 1:09 p.m. PST |
There'll be plenty of breaks once the orders start pouring in. No, that's when the real work starts. Making masters is positively relaxing compared to casting, packing, and shipping in volume. |
Thesceneuk | 04 Feb 2010 3:32 p.m. PST |
Yes I would prefer masters any day of the week. Scully should be with me tomorrow , if not there will be some butt kicking. |
Cacique Caribe | 04 Feb 2010 4:05 p.m. PST |
And you better treat her nice, or else she'll be doing the butt kicking: link Dan |
Cacique Caribe | 22 Feb 2010 11:12 p.m. PST |
How about some units with curved roofs, as if cut from the outer hull of a ship? link TMP link Dan |
Covert Walrus | 23 Feb 2010 9:47 p.m. PST |
Jon listened to you earlier, CC – he may be listening now . . . :) |
Cacique Caribe | 23 Feb 2010 9:50 p.m. PST |
What? People actually listen to me?!?!? Dan |
Cacique Caribe | 24 Feb 2010 9:17 a.m. PST |
Covert Walrus, Seriously, do you think he would ever produce something with a cut-ship-hull-for-roof like this? link Thanks. Dan |
Cacique Caribe | 24 Feb 2010 1:12 p.m. PST |
Hmm. I guess that, if I'm really at a loss, another option for coming up with curved-roofs for wreckage huts, would be to get one of these models and cut it up to make roofs for 5 or 6 huts (some from the top hull, some from the bottom one): picture picture picture picture picture link tak5haka.net/tag/ufo Though I still prefer roof sections that look like they came from the hull of a much bigger ship: link Dan TMP link |
Cacique Caribe | 25 Feb 2010 10:29 a.m. PST |
Way to go, Battle Works Studio! TMP link Dan |
Cacique Caribe | 17 Nov 2010 3:33 p.m. PST |
And, if you want to make it a "Favela", here ya go: TMP link Dan |
Cacique Caribe | 18 Dec 2010 1:13 p.m. PST |
Has anyone else tried to make their own version of an SF Shanty Town like this one here? picture link TMP link Dan |
Lampyridae | 19 Dec 2010 2:11 p.m. PST |
Yup, made 5 shacks so far, plus a 2 storey disused building. |
Cacique Caribe | 19 Dec 2010 11:45 p.m. PST |
Lampyridae, Links to pics? Please, please, please. :) Thanks, Dan |
poiter50 | 24 Dec 2010 6:13 p.m. PST |
Altius, pics of your Chinese Market Place for BOB? |
Cacique Caribe | 24 Dec 2010 8:19 p.m. PST |
Altius: "It shouldn't be too hard at all. I did something very similar a while back. I made a Chinese outdoor market terrain piece for the "Back of Beyond" era, which looked pretty much the same." Yes. Pics please! Dan |
Cacique Caribe | 30 Dec 2010 11:47 p.m. PST |
I imagine that making a shantytown like the one in the layout picture at the bottom of this page would be a whole lot of fun: link Dan |
Cacique Caribe | 13 Jan 2011 10:16 p.m. PST |
Guys, Zoom in on the shacks at the bottom of this illustration: link Weird to think of a futuristic-looking slum, but there it is! Dan |
28mmMan | 14 Jan 2011 8:50 p.m. PST |
Dan, Most of your deviant art results are quite nice
this last one reeks of all that is bad in pop art
zooming in just made it worse. All in all, art is objective and in this case I object. I tried again
it is all disjointed and candy coated, just yuck. The link before, with the technical drawings is infinitely better in just about every way compared to the latter one. bleack and meh The idea of shanty construction is that they are made of whatever is available, usually a commonality is found
at least in the real world versions picture link while the siding is chaotic, the roof elements are common picture picture here we find the common metal elements and tarps The chaos is clear, but so is the order. The art piece looks like a bag of garbage
a bleach bottle on its side, a box from asian takeout food, a juice box, etc
one of each item just stuck together
at least if it was real garbage stuck together then it would be art
making a statement
that piece makes me think of bad 70-80's big eye sad clown on black velvet
not in a good way. ***** Sorry for the rant Dan, pretentious art just rubs me wrong. I have been searching, trying to find some art versions of future shanties: picture picture (which is available in miniature form :) picture Found a nice and simple cardboard and foam core shanty town picture Anyway, the house fire and the stress of moving has shortened my fuse, so forgive the excessive review
have a great weekend all. |