"Converting diecast vehicles" Topic

I'm putting together a Dinosaur Hunters force for the back of beyond and have aquired a variety of diecast trucks from the likes of Lledo, Oxford Diecast and Matchbox.

I'm planning to convert three of them into improvised, lightly armoured cars and the other four into stripped down expedition vehicles.

Has anyone got any tips on the best way to do this, in particular, how do I model the rivetting on the armour plates (I've got a Musketeer Miniatures armoured lorry which I'm going to use as a vehicle, so the others need to look something like it to fit in)

Where can I get hold of suitable resin or metal kit to hang of the trucks e.g. crates, boxes, tools, fuel drums etc?

Should I mount up a Maxim or Vickers as the armament, or would a Lewis gun on a pintle mount do the job?

Any help or suggestions (or links to pictures of this sort of thing) would be very welcome.

Cheers

Jim

Jim,
Possible stowage here

link

Tips on rivets here

link

As for guns I would have thought what ever you can get hold off but I like lewis guns they just look cool.

Cheers Jon

Thanks Jon,

The Company B bits and bobs look useful.

I'll try the rivets thing as well.

Cheers

Jim

I just completed a similar project not too long ago. I started with a Lledo Model T and converted it to an improvised armored car for my RCW Bolsheviks. I don't have any photos, but maybe I'll take some and post it later.

Here's how I did mine. After coming up with a plan of how the armored car would be configured, I trimmed off the headlights. They stick out from the side and will interfere with the armor plating. I then made a series of armor pieces out of plastic sheeting. The trickiest part was forming the curve on the sheets so that they fit snugly on top of the front fenders. But other than that, it was all straight, easy cuts. Then I just glued all the armor plate directly to the car. I drilled out two holes on the side and re-attached the headlights there. Make sure you fill in all the gaps between the plates with putty.

Before doing the rivets, I searched the forums here to see how other people do them, and there are several different methods you can use, some easier than others. The method I used was to take Testors modelling glue and squirt a little puddle of it onto surface. Then, I dipped a toothpick into it and dabbed it onto the plastic sheet. You just need a tiny glob of it, but it forms a nice, rounded rivethead that holds tight to the plastic and keeps it's shape when it dries. The glue dries pretty fast, so you have to keep repeating the process to make sure you're only using fresh glue. That was the first time I tried that, and I am really pleased with the result.

Some round plastic rods will also be useful to you. I used that to represent the hinges on the doors and on the hood. Shaping the rod a little with a razor also makes a pretty good door handle.

There are lots of companies that make gear for you to hang from the sides of your vehicle. What I used was a pack made by Tamiya for 1:48 scale vehicles: link
The pack says "jerry cans", but it also contains a LOT of blanketrolls, bundles, buckets, packs, etcetera, all for around 10 bucks. Unfortunately, no tools such as shovels, though.

If you're going for a vehicle mounted weapon, I'd go with a Vickers or Lewis gun. Brigade games makes a stowage kit for the LRDG that includes a Lewis: link

I also think Cannon Fodder Minis makes separate Lewis Guns as well.

I have done a Gobi Desert scenario.
link

explorers vs bandits, not vs dinosaur. I used vehicles straight from the box and did not spend time with conversions. The Old Glory Lancaster armored car looks good as is. Trucks were diecast but just repainted. I put HMG in the trucks, but kept them as ground mounted so could dismount.

Brigade Games(Company B) make lots of good guns to mount in the trucks.
link
I would use Lewis guns for this. Their Rolls vehicles are nice, I just got the tender.
link

I spent much time getting figures and terrain ready. Now I think I will get some of that Company B equipment and "dress" up the trucks for the next game.

Jim,

self-adhesive plastic studs for scrap book decorating and other craft projects are readily available at the local Michael's or Hobby Lobby. They come in all sorts of sizes, down to itty-bitty just perfect for making rivets on improvised armour plating.

Hope this helps!

Leland R. Erickson
Metal Express
metal-express.net

On a similar track, how would you modify die-cast tanks past basic stuff like this? For example, I have some Solido diecast T-34s and I'd like to "open" the TC's hatch and perhaps the driver's hatch and model in some crew figures. I tried using a Dremel tool with a bit that said it can work on steel, but I couldn't make any headway. Any ideas on what it would take to cut open a hatch on one of these diecast models??

plasma cutter?

Thanks chaps

Very helpful stuff…excellent!

Tankisti,

Do you want to 'save' the hatches?
If not, a #199 cutter in your Dremel will make short work of the hatches.
Afterwards clean up the rough edges with either a #196 or a #117.

If possible work from the inside.

One of the possible conversions would be something like this (the sand version):

link