"Removing Flash and Prepping Ships" Topic

I planned to start (finally) prepping my ships and removing flash and mould lines. Nearly everything I have is Navwar, so it has the characteristic centerline mould line.

Any tips or suggestions on how to remove it, go about it, and so forth? I'm worried about scuffing it too much, as I'm not handy with expoxy putty or Milliput.

Any help would be appreciated.

P.S. I might also add that I plan to add masts to the ships. So I don't know if this will have any bearing on what you might add.

I have loads of their pre-dreadnoughts and not all seem to suffer the centreline problem, mostly it has been my French ships that have it. Recent purchases don't seem as bad as those I bought about 8 years ago.

I use a fine file to reduce the problem but it never really goes away on some vessels – I even pitched a couple and ordered more later, which weren't so bad.

As a filler I used fine surface filler (the stuff for decorating) on a few to stop the line showing on the decks and turret tops. Use it after priming and let it harden fully before filing.

Another place that it can look odd is on the funnels just file the tops level.

I added masts to merchants but couldn't be bothered doing it to the warships. I've no doubt they'd look better with them but modelling fighting tops etc – couldn't see it being worth it, I'd probably make them look worse.

Gildas,

Thank you for the input.

What do you use for your masts? I have a package of styrene rods from Evergreen (0.020"), but in some photographs I've seen, it seems like others use something more rigid. Metal perhaps? Any suggestions on that aspect?

I described my flash-removal methods in this 1:6000 thread. Works for 1:3000 as well of course. TMP link

With respect to masts, I have traditionally used old 5-string banjo strings. Very thin and springy (steel, I think), and thus quite durable. The different strings are of different thickness, with the 5th string being the thinnest. I epoxy them into a hole or slot in the model. When purchased new, they are (or were) typically coiled up in the container, but they straighten out pretty well when removed (kind of like releasing a spring…). Of course, if you have used ones, they are even straighter, as they have been mounted on the banjo for awhile.

Gee whiz at 1/3000 masts are invisible…to protect bigger scale models tap hole an super glue up turned sewing needle.

I prefer metal masts. They're less likely to break off. You can get either brass rods of various thicknesses or steel piano wire. They do improve the look of the models, as you can see from the attached pictures.

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