| Captain Apathy | 29 Sep 2009 11:13 a.m. PST |
A few weeks back I posted asking about the difference between Magic Wash and the new GW Washes. TMP link I received a few requested via PM to post pics when I was done, so here they are. The first picture is two 1:48 scale Maisto diecast humvees. The green one was washed with black and the tan one was washed with brown. The tan humvee has also been dull coated. I took the picture before dull coating the green humvee to show the shine, but I'm not sure if it comes through in the picture. picture The second picture is of two 1:43 scale Russian BTR-60PB [edit] APCs that I picked up on ebay. One was magic washed black and dull coated, the other is as it was when I received it. picture |
| Captain Apathy | 29 Sep 2009 11:51 a.m. PST |
Also, for the record I am quite happy with the magic wash technique. It achieved the results I was looking for. I also used the new GW washes on a few pieces of terrain that came out "lighter" than I wanted and they worked perfectly as well. The best way I can think to describe the difference between the two techniques is the Magic Wash settles in the recesses better than the GW Wash, but the GW Wash does a better job of tinting the entire model. I hope that helps. |
| Steve W | 29 Sep 2009 2:41 p.m. PST |
Thanks for the pics, they look good..I have been starting to use the wash recently, and have a slight problem, sometimes the wash works perfectly and goes into the recess perfectly, and others its just seems to sit on top of the model and do nothing…Any ideas why? |
John Leahy  | 29 Sep 2009 2:41 p.m. PST |
Thanks for posting the pics. Sorta thought Magic Wash would work out pretty well. Thanks, John |
| Lion in the Stars | 29 Sep 2009 3:15 p.m. PST |
The only thing that I can think of that keeps the GW washes from hitting the cracks right is *maybe* how much CA accelerator you've used. I've noticed that kicker does weird things to the surface tension of the model, and nothing really takes it away. Maybe those guys on the Battletech forums have the right idea with a white-vinegar bath and scrub before painting? |
| Captain Apathy | 29 Sep 2009 5:43 p.m. PST |
have been starting to use the wash recently, and have a slight problem, sometimes the wash works perfectly and goes into the recess perfectly, and others its just seems to sit on top of the model and do nothing…Any ideas why?
Not sure, but I had this happen with one of the eight humvees I tried. I quickly washed the vehicle with warm soapy water and tried again later. It worked fine after that. |
| Steve W | 29 Sep 2009 6:02 p.m. PST |
Ok cheers for that I will keep at it |
| Bronco | 27 Oct 2009 9:51 a.m. PST |
Try adding a drop or two of dishwashing soap to break the surface tension of your wash. A high tension of the wash will cause the wash to float on top of the details of your model/casting while a lower tension will make the solution flow into the grooves, which I assume is what you are looking for. Bronco_6 |
| templar72 | 27 Oct 2009 1:28 p.m. PST |
I haven't used either of these washes, but when using the minwax dip (which is the same concept) I have found that if I paint the model in a base color and highlight it with a much lighter shade on the raised areas it really helps the finished look, particulary on armored vehicles. Ed G. |
| Shriver | 27 Oct 2009 9:12 p.m. PST |
templar72 what shade of minwax to you use? how do these practices compare to that army painter stuff? |
| WarpSpeed | 27 Oct 2009 10:08 p.m. PST |
I have used a vinrgar bath for all metal figures for the last 20 years ,i throw in an old copper coil ,adds hardness th
e old pure lead models lacked ,cheap copper electroplated minis. |
equips his Israeli recon unit.
