
"A bit of flesh....." Topic
12 Posts
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| Brummie Lad | 08 Sep 2009 11:00 a.m. PST |
Hi all. I've been looking for ways to improve and enhance my painting lately, and I thought I would start by focusing on flesh tones. I've tried a few methods so far. The first has been painted as follows (all paints are Vallejo): Chocolate brown Cork brown Flat flesh 50% flat flesh & 50% Light Flesh picture The second was painted using: Brown rose 50% brown rose & 50% flat flesh Flat flesh 50% flat flesh & 50% light flesh picture The third was painted with: Bronze Flesh Ogryn flesh wash Highlight of bronze flesh Flat flesh 50% flat flesh & 50% light flesh picture (All the mixes are approximate) Sorry about the eyes, but it's something I really, really struggle with. Practice makes perfect, as they say :) So, what I was hoping you could help me with, is, which do YOU think looks more effective? Are there any particular methods you use/prefer beyond those shown? (Yes, I know there are A LOT!! lol) I look forward to your comments, etc
:) |
| Mick in Switzerland | 08 Sep 2009 11:31 a.m. PST |
I don't like Vallejo for flesh tones. I cannot really say why. I mix GW Dwarf Flesh with GW Elf flesh to make my own Human Flesh colour. Then I wash with a brown colour (Army Painter Strong Tone or GW Devlan Mud or simply dilute GW Scorched Brown.) Characters get additional highlights of GW Elf Flesh and GW Dwarf Flesh on the lips. To get stubble mix in a little grey. This is a BTD 28mm Russian. (If you chose small you get the actual size) link Regards Mick |
| A Twiningham | 08 Sep 2009 11:41 a.m. PST |
Well, I like the Vallejo equivalents of the GW flesh! Try Beastial brown, dwarf flesh, then elf flesh with or without blends in between. I like to throw some VMC orange brown in between the beastial brown and dwarf flesh usually. Alternately, substitute VMC cavalry brown for the beastial brown and/or VMC red beige for the dwarf flesh . |
| Mick in Switzerland | 08 Sep 2009 12:06 p.m. PST |
Don't take me wrong. I use a lot of Vallejo Model Colour. I just prefer GW for flesh tones as all the shades fit together nicely. Mick |
| fairoaks024 | 08 Sep 2009 12:07 p.m. PST |
the third one looks best to me, regards jim |
| Dan Beattie | 08 Sep 2009 2:36 p.m. PST |
I like the third, too. I think lips look better if you just paint the bottom lip. |
| Steve W | 08 Sep 2009 3:44 p.m. PST |
I think the GW Dwarf flesh is too red, and the Vajello Medium flesh is too yellow, so I mix the two together to get a colour I like
Its a bit of a pain to do each time, so I am still on the look out for what in my mind is a good flesh tone |
| ThorLongus | 09 Sep 2009 3:41 a.m. PST |
I use reaper pro paint series for flesh tones,as i too gave up on GW and vallejo out of the bottle for flesh. the reper comes in triads -base-hilite-shade of different fleshtones
also some cheap crafstore paints actually work well |
| tuscaloosa | 09 Sep 2009 12:33 p.m. PST |
I think they all look good (as defined by "better than I can paint"). My only comment is that, imho, soldiers are much more tanned than the usual wargaming figure. It's a lifestyle lived almost entirely outdoors under the sun, and while the chest, belly and forehead might stay white, the cheeks, neck and sometimes forearms should be pretty brown. Unless of course, you're doing the Bulge or French Fortress Troops
ymmv |
| Rob UK | 10 Sep 2009 11:48 p.m. PST |
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| donlowry | 14 Sep 2009 2:10 p.m. PST |
Depends on nationality, season, location, etc. The first two seem a bit pale for troops that have been out in the sun every day, but otherwise good. The third one looks rather olive-skinned to me -- suitable for Mediterranean or Middle Eastern nationalities -- but still rather pale. |
| Artorius | 01 Aug 2010 9:40 p.m. PST |
I used to put a lot of effort into painting faces and they still looked like a madman had applied clown paint. I picked up the following wash technique from a friend and my face painting woes are gone. Not only is it quick, but the faces look better than I've ever done. 1. Use white primer -- this is a wash technique, black, brown, gray, primer won't work. 2. mix 2 parts raw sienna with 1 part burnt umber and 4 parts "amended" water. (Amended water has a wee bit of dish soap added to help the flow. I actually use 1 drop of Liquitex Flow Aid with regular water.) 3. Wash it over the flesh bits and let dry. 4. You can go back and highlight, but I find that it looks good as is. 5. Paint the hair with a 50/50 mix of dark brown and water – not too thick, not too thin. BTW, I cover any exposed hair with the initial flesh wash. DON'T PAINT THE EYES. This is actually the best part because I *hated* painting eyes and the wash makes the eye areas look suitable shaded. At 28mm scale you shouldn't see any eyes anyway. |
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