 John the OFM  | 13 Jul 2009 6:57 a.m. PST |
I have just been getting into metal airplane castings. I had not encountered this before in all my years, but a few models come with bad pitting in flat "smooth" surfaces.
I dealt with it on some glider models by gradually filling the pits with Zap-a-Gap CA adhesive and filing the lumps down. This is rather time consuming, and hell on details. I have another batch of 6 other planes coming up, and they are worse. Any advice? |
| rigmarole | 13 Jul 2009 7:07 a.m. PST |
I suggest that you try to put down some Gunze Mr. Surfacer (1000 for this application I should think), wait for it to dry, and then sand down with 600-800 grit sand paper. Tutorial here: link |
| John the OFM | 13 Jul 2009 7:12 a.m. PST |
Ah, interesting. I have not seen it at my Frieldly Local Model Railroad Store. Where is it available? |
| rddfxx | 13 Jul 2009 7:26 a.m. PST |
I would use artists modeling paste, available at Michaels, Utrecht, etc. I like modeling paste because it can be thinned with water and you can work it easily with your fingers. Basically, it is an acrylic binder -- like fine spackle -- with very fine marble dust for strength. It will stick to metal. |
Wyatt the Odd  | 13 Jul 2009 7:30 a.m. PST |
If you have Green Stuff, you can use that. I thin it with rubbing alcohol and lightly sand it after its set. It worked on a MiniFigs P-51. Wyatt |
| rigmarole | 13 Jul 2009 7:34 a.m. PST |
You may have to mail order it then. Great Models and Rollmodels – indeed most model supplies stores – should have it. Great Models: link
Rollmodels: GSSF284, Mr. Surfacer 1000 ( Jar )
Gunze-Sangyo Finishing Supplies, $5.75 USD At a pinch, modelling paste as suggested above should work okay as well. |
| jpattern2 | 13 Jul 2009 7:50 a.m. PST |
Tamiya makes a surfacer, too, that might be more readily available than the Gunze version. |
| John the OFM | 13 Jul 2009 7:58 a.m. PST |
Good. My FLMRRS carries Tamiya stuff. |
| Allen57 | 13 Jul 2009 8:00 a.m. PST |
Apoxie sculpting putty works well. It is water soluable. I put it on the surface, remove most with a scraper and then rub it with a wet finger until it is even with the surrounding surface. Once it dries you can prime the modeland sand down any remaining putty spots if needed. If you do it right you dont have many spots that need sanding. The same technique will probably work with just about any water soluable filler. Ive even done this with spackle. Al |
| Top Gun Ace | 13 Jul 2009 9:28 a.m. PST |
Squadron sells tubes of putty as well, with a small screw cap, for filling in pits. |
| Wyatt the Odd | 13 Jul 2009 10:03 a.m. PST |
That's the stuff I meant, Top Gun. I always call it "green stuff" and forget that it usually refers to a two-part ribbon. Oops. Wyatt |
| Top Gun Ace | 13 Jul 2009 11:23 a.m. PST |
They sell the green and white. I think the consistency may be slightly different. The plus side with the white is supposedly it doesn't stain clothing. The green stuff may. Most hobby and model railroading stores carry it. |
| boggler | 13 Jul 2009 11:37 a.m. PST |
I've used green stuff for this. Works fine. |
| John the OFM | 13 Jul 2009 12:38 p.m. PST |
I have that stuff… I thought it was just for filling in gaps. I never thought it would work for pitting. |
| Chips88 | 18 Jul 2009 1:49 p.m. PST |
The green & white both work fine for it, John. Can't some of the pits be AAA fire? :-) |
