"Klear disolving Tamiya paint" Topic

Brushed on some tamiya olive green on a resin Churchill, added a bit of vallejo model colour yellow to highlight, left overnight and this morning applied a coat of Klear and its taken off and smudged the green.

Anyone seen this before, are tamiya and klear not compatible? Should i have left it longer than 10 hours before applying the Klear?

happens all the time with Tamiya..make sure you do a good undercoat then ..well that is the best I can offer, tamiya does not like non acrylic varnish and sometimes doesn't like acrylic varnish..you could leave it forever..actually I don't know what klear is but dullcots does the same thing especially over metal

The Tamiya paint may not have adherred to the resin fully. Resin can pose several problems. I understand that, even after a good washing, resin, depending on its formulations, can still "leak" an oily substance for want of a better term. Also not all paints will "bite" the surface. Most folks recommend priming resin surface usually with a quality enamel type paint. Many folks use a flat black or brown to preshade.

After washing and letting dry I will prime and then let the item sit at least 48-72 hours before painting. I let my painted models sit at least 24 hours before adding a gloss or dullcoat.

Klear, Cardinal, is another name for Future, an acrylic floor polish which works wonders as a gloss coat or for use in vehicle washes.

Tamiya acrylic paint won't adhere to blinking anything! Not without a base coat of some other paint. Which kind of defeats the purpose really.

Are we talking about Johnson's Klear, aka Future? If so, I've used both in combination for, well, a decade or more. IMHO the secret is I use an airbrush.

Also the tamiya paint may not have fully cured.

Damon.

It's not a problem of adherence. It's the fact that, unlike other acrylics, Tamiya paints are easily affected by any application of solvents like those in clear coats.

we dont have clear in australia but I get the proncip;e..you are sort of insane if you don.t undercoat your stuff, and in my experience don't use Tamiya to undercoat, it isn't up to it..I use one of the number of spray cans , a fiennd much more knowlegdable in this are a says that these primer cans are really an acryliv laquer and very tough and I have never lost any detail, and all pacrylic paint goes on and stays on .Whwn I have finished paintitng I then gloss varnish with an acrylic which I suspect is little differnt from floor polish ..but the trick is in the preparation, you have top wash the resin..and there are some "soapy" resisns that are difficult even if you do all the prep work, and..sorry to say as I paint for a living, there are no shortcuts in preparation, especially if you paint for a local circle..and yes Tamiya don'r liek dullcote unless you ahve worked hard at it, that is why I flat spray with Gunze H20 through an airbrush..

Layering appears to be the key. I also do 1/35th scale armor. Whether resin, plastic or metal first a good cleaning. A quality primer. Then Tamiya, I have had no problems. Then usually a gloss coat from a can, usually Model Master or Testor. Gloss coating a key to good decals and stops silvering. Decals. A final Gloss coat. Washes and weathering and then the Dullcoat. As you can see there are at least one and usually two layers of Glosscoat between the paint and the final Dullcoat.

Drying time is a must! Especially in Florida have to add a bit of time during the summer where very humid conditions means and even longer curing time. One reason it is nice to have several projects going at once. Not in a hurry and can let a model sit up to a week if necessary to ensure fully dried and cured before next step,

Hi projectmayhem,
Like you i live in the UK and I've had a similar problem with Klear taking off Vallejo paint.
For a quick paint job I paint black areas Vallejo Model Colour German Grey, then do a black wash over. Last time I did this (using Klear mixed with black paint for the first time) the Klear washed the German Grey off.

it has a lot to do with the undercoat..

I don't know what kind of Tamiya others are using, but I have used Tamiya Acrylics for 15 years and NEVER had any problems with adherence or dissolving of any type. I have NEVER used a primer on plastic or Resin and never had any problems. I've used Testots Gloss, Future Floor wax and Krylon and never a problem. The only suggestion I can give is,as has been said, Perhaps the Klear reacted with the Tamiya. The only time I have ever encountered what you are explaining is using Testors Dull coat on Gunze paints. The Dull Coat ate the paint off and crazed what was left. Maybe try using 2 or 3 coats, perhaps the base coat was not thick enough?