"Help with Chieftain Resin Models" Topic

I have a resin T-28 from Chieftain, and I can't for the life of me get the metal parts to stick to the resin parts. The resin is that super-light weight grey resin. I've used all sorts of super glues and model cement, but nothing keeps these two materials together! What kind of glue/cement works with Chieftain resin?

did you wash the resin with soap solution to remove the mold release?

Hey Bill, can you remove this from Naval review? That crosspost was a mistake!

Brigade, I washed the models with warm water and soap as I do generally before glueing and priming. I wasn't aware of a mold release coating… is there a special solution I should use to clean this off?

The warm, soapy water should do.

I also suggest scoring the resin, and the mteal piece you will be attaching to it, so that it has something to adhere to. You can use a dull x-acto knife for that.

A metal files would work just as well to roughen the area up.

Good luck!

Is it the same grey resin that the Sherman one?

link

I used Loclite Super Glue Gel Control and it worked fine (Glue on one side, 2-3 small dots, set in place and wait 10-20s. After 5 minutes it's perfect.

Olivier

Two part epoxy, like Araldite, you need to set up a jig to hold the bits together whilst the epoxy goes off.

Looks like the same one SgtPerry. I'll try these suggestions in order of least expense, thanks everyone!

also put a pin or 2 in itll help resist any shearing strees, though i should add that all the stuff of Crouchys ive done has gone together just fine with strait super glue

Zap a Gap has always worked for me with pretty much every material, including metal to that gray resin.

Evan, sorry to hear you are having some problems.
The resin has a high aluminium content, and is different to the Sherman stuff. It should be washed before assembly, and heavy pieces like the T28 tracks should be adhered with two part epoxy, as Superglue in any form can be a brittle bond.
Nigel's idea of a jig is a good one. I would suggest a small vice or clamps softened with tissue, and to raise the hull up to the right height, use card or MDF strips.
Zap-a-Gap is also good, but different viscosities have different drying times. Abrading the surfaces may help as well to provide a key.

Nah it was just my cruddy superglue after all. I went out and bought SgtPerry's Loctite glue and it worked like a charm. It's funny, the old stuff worked great on some metal/plastic combos.

I have to commend Crouchie at Chieftain Models for his excellent customer service though. There was a minor snag in my order that delayed it shipping, and Ian sent me a brand new T-26 model. Now I'm finally getting around to painting up both and they are gorgeous. Everyone in the Mass area, expect to see these at Havok for my Winter War game!