
"1:6000 destroyers, light cruisers and subs" Topic
7 Posts
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| Deserter | 21 Nov 2008 2:33 a.m. PST |
I am willing to do WW2 naval but I have a very limited space (120x70 cm). So I will stick to DD and CL actions with convoys, submarines, etc. Given the limited space, I was thinking to use 1:6000, but are the small vessels visibile at this scale? Or maybe 1:3000 would give a better visual and still fit to the space available? What do you think? Thank you. |
McKinstry  | 21 Nov 2008 7:20 a.m. PST |
We played a convoy game at Fall In using 1/6000 that was very well received. They are small but you can certainly detail them. link 1/3000 has the advantage of more specific ships models as it is probably the most complete naval range among all the scales. |
| Allen57 | 21 Nov 2008 7:24 a.m. PST |
I find 1/6000 to be a bit too small if you want to see the specific ship on the table. If this is not a problem and you can live with "thats a DD or thats a CL" the 1/6000 miniatures are great. Given the space you have I feel you are forced to use 1/6000. 1/3000 allow you to see what the individual ship is but as far as the visual. I think the 1/6000 look good sailing across the gameboard. I have more space than you do and use 1/3000 because I like to see the ships differences. McKinstry's link leads to pictures of the models. Remember that the models are smaller than those pictures. I am amazed by the 1/6000s up close and personal but gaming distance turns them rather generic looking. YMMV. Buy a couple 1/6000 and set them out on your board before investing too heavily. |
| Sundance | 21 Nov 2008 8:41 a.m. PST |
1/6000 is too small to see the specific ship. I have a code on the back of the base showing its class and the name of the specific ship on the bottom. I like them though because I don't have a lot of storage space and I can pack dozens of them in cardboard jewelry boxes (long skinny ones for bracelets and necklaces). You'll find most rules sets telescope the distances – ie, at 1/6000 a nautical mile is one foot, but you'll usually find the rules set it at 4", 6" or 8", or something like that. In that sense, it really doesn't matter what scale the ship is. I like the 1/6000 because I do have the floor space to do battles at 1/6000 (1'=1 nm) in my living room. The other nice thing about the 1/6000 is they are very inexpensive, comparatively. I haven't bought any recently so don't know what they are going for now, but when I bought mine, I was paying as little as $0.50 USD a ship for destroyers, lt cruisers. You'll find the larger scales much more expensive, partly because of the additional detail necessary to make them look good. |
| Inari7 | 21 Nov 2008 9:54 a.m. PST |
I like 1/6000 for fleet scale operations, if I was to do smaller actions I would get into a larger scale, BUT you have such a small playing area (4'x3')I would also suggest 1/6000. My ships based are DD 1.75cm X 2.5cm (1/2"X 1")My CL' are based 1.75cm X 4.25cm (1/2" X 1.5") (hope my math is close)If you went to 1/3000 scale I imagine you would double this scale. If you want to see how it looks just cut out some homemade counters and put them on your table for looks. BTW my 1/6000 scale ships make a tight fit onto my bases, here is a link to see what they look like. link I just uploaded this picture, its not the best but shows what the ships look like based from above. link Good luck hope this helps.
Doug
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| BoltAction | 21 Nov 2008 1:32 p.m. PST |
on the small table I think you'll have a blast with 1/6000. Subs are not really recognisable, flower class corvettes are tiny. But you can see them and they are quick to paint and as you're so close to the table you'll be able to see them. Here's a few pics of a convoy game with 1/6000 stuff. picture picture picture picture picture picture picture Destroyers, flowers, cargo ships, subs.. All on 3x5 Si |
| DestoFante | 21 Nov 2008 1:39 p.m. PST |
Deserter, I have been struggling with the same issues, and finally, last week, I decided to do some painting both in the 1/6000 and in the 1/3000. I have several pictures and a description of the process on my blog: link I have to say that, against my initial fears, the 1/6000 came out very well. If space is a concern and a constraint, I would not hesitate to recommend you to go for the Figurehead/Hallmark range. In 1/3000, you gain better details, and individual vessels are easier to recognize – although I am not sure if that remains true looking at your table from a 3-4 feet distance. Good luck! Adik destofante.blogspot.com |
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