| Grape Ape | 20 Nov 2008 9:03 a.m. PST |
Have you ever had this problem with a plastic or resin models: You get the perfect paint job on it, only to discover that it remains permanently sticky? I've had this happen a few times over the years. No one has ever been able to tell me what to do about it. Finally, I cured it. Simply brush on a coat of Tamiya acrylic clear coat (it must be Tamiya in my experience, nothing similar seems to work) and the stickies are gone! Give it a try. WARNING: Do not then attempt to coat something else over the clear coat, this must be the final phase. Otherwise, the stickies come right back. |
| Brandlin | 20 Nov 2008 9:38 a.m. PST |
Excellent – I now have a solution to a problem I've never had! now all i have to do is cause some stickies so i can fix em!! Glad you found a solution to your problem – seems i'm lucky! |
| Cpt Arexu | 20 Nov 2008 10:10 a.m. PST |
Thanks – I have a bunch of sticky zombies who will try this fix
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| Grape Ape | 20 Nov 2008 10:14 a.m. PST |
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| Grape Ape | 20 Nov 2008 10:15 a.m. PST |
N.B. It cannot be the spray on clear coat. Only the brush on works. |
Dances With Words  | 20 Nov 2008 10:57 a.m. PST |
I've had a 'similar' problem with spray on 'clear coat' on polymer clays, (like Fimo and Sculpy)
and taking a 50-50 water/elmers white glue mix or the Sculpy water-based matte glaze and BRUSHING it on
cures the 'stickies' on the clays! (after they're baked of course!) and yes, that HAS to be the 'final' coat/no other baking/painting etc. I HAVE even come back later with a second coat of the water-based matte glaze for MORE 'protection'
(which is fine) but only after letting the first 'coat' sit overnight in warm room
and completely dry. (usually to make sure I didn't 'miss' any sticky areas)
I had one piece of sculpy that I'd sealed ONCE and had tried about every thing else for TWO years (and it was still 'sticky') and was going to throw the figure out
since it only collected dust/lint!
but the brush on 'glaze' process SAVED it!! glad to hear similar things work for painted PLASTICS too!!! Slishfully, Sgt DWW-btod |
| Ditto Tango 2 1 | 20 Nov 2008 12:21 p.m. PST |
I've never run into this, ever, and I've been making plastic models since 1968. -- Tim |
| Jovian1 | 20 Nov 2008 1:41 p.m. PST |
I only had one batch of figures get the "stickies" which I've not been able to cure/fix. I sprayed some GW plastic terminators from the Space Hulk game with Krylon paint to prime them and they got sticky – and nothing worked and I tried everything. So they went the way of the dodo and were trashed. |
| Garand | 20 Nov 2008 5:01 p.m. PST |
I've seen it happen twice before. The first time is when using enamel paints on vinyl. Some sort of reaction with the vinyl inhibits the paint cure process. The other time is when I tried to thin enamel paints with non-reccommended thinner (in this case Testors enamel with laquer
worked fine with Humbrol, does NOT work fine with testors!) The only thing I can think of is mold release agent or perhaps oil on the surface
Damon. |
| CmdrKiley | 20 Nov 2008 6:08 p.m. PST |
I too have experienced, the stickies. Several times after priming a soft vinyl figure with enamel spray paint (dinosaur figures at Micheals) . Another time when I mixed too much Future Floor wax and acrylic air brush thinner with my ink. This I found unusual as I've done this many times and never had the stickies persist more than a day. This one particular case lasted over a week and was very tacky to touch. I think it was due to the thick layers of glaze I had made. The vinyl dinosaurs were simply solved by a light coat of Testors Dullcote. The Warjack was another story as it was very thick. He ended up in the Pinesol wash. Luckily he was only at the initial phases of my work. |