"gaming tables" Topic

I have a few questions maybe some could help out with. I am new to gaming and taking the next step for the fig's I have made up. What is a good size battlefiled for 1/72 scale? 1/32 scale?
Also What is the technique to make flock adhere to the table? Do I need to clear coat it after I glue it to keep from flaking off? Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks all

If you are building a dedicated table, build as big a one as will fit in the space you have, up to about 6x10.

To get flock to adhere, just spray it with diluted PVA (aka white glue like Elmer's).

There's more to consider than figure size. You also need to consider what era you're playing (a WWII game will probably require more space than ancients), and you need to consider the rules that you're using. An ancients game using DBA will require far less space than one using Warhammer Ancient Battles.

If you are building a dedicated gaming table, then build as big a one as you will normally use.

A 6x10 table would be useful to me only a few times in a few years. The 6x4 table I built works wonderfully for most everything we do. If we need it bigger for some reason we can lay things on top to increse the size.

We game WWII in both 1/144 scale and 1/32 scale, and both work well on the 6x4 table. Of course we game 1/32 skirmish. If you are looking to do division games or something than a fold up table so you can play on the floor is a better idea.

The main thing is the rules you are using as that will determine the ground scale, and that in turn will determine the size of battles you are playing and therefore the table size you need.

Having said that, you can't really go wrong with 6'x'4', small enough to reach the middle easily, big enough for a decent sized game with many sets of rules. I've been playing on 6x4 for decades.

Of course another option would be to leave the table bare and simply use commercially availabe terrain mats, or many people use felt or other fabric covers from stores such as Joann's craft & fabric stores.
This way you can switch out covers to do differnt terrain such as desert, or grass, or snow

Couple suggestion present themselves.

5 X 9. This is the size of the standard ping-pong table. You might be able to pick one up fairly cheap at a yard sale or throught the classifieds. Advantage is many of them fold in half and can be stored away in the garage between sessions. Downside is it sounds like you want folk the table rather then using a ground cloth.

4 X 8. This is the standard sized sheet of plywood in the US. Get one with a high grade quality on one side. You can of course prepare the surface however you wish if you dont want to use mats or ground cloth. Can be stored on its side in the garage when not in use. You will need a base of some type. You can use a regular table (with pad) as a base, saw horses or something like that.

These are two simple and quick solutions. Both provide ample room for gaming and since both can be stored between use you only need an area big enough to temporarily set them up.

A couple of practical considerations tend to limit table size:

1. How big is your game room? You need three or four feet of clearance between every table edge and the nearest wall or other obstacle so that players can comfortably move around the table.

2. How long are your arms? Make sure you can comfortably reach the middle of the table to move figures. A five foot wide table fits most gamers. Six feet is a stretch for me.

Also, make sure that the height of the table is comfortable for your height and reach, and that it can support he weight of several gamers leaning on it.

So, five or six feet wide by however much length fits in your game room is the practical limit on table size for most gamers. Starting with those facts, you figure out what the nominal ground scale of your rules must be, in order to fit the kind of battle you want to model into the space you have available to play in. Then you decide what scale figures will work passably with the ground scale, and whether one figure needs to represent one man or one thousand. And so on.

Most of us don't flock or paint our tables very elaborately. I use different colors of cloth and seperate terrain features (hills, clumps of model trees, etc.) to construct unique terrain for each game I play. This gives me a lot more flexibility, to choose to use the 'temperate' cloth, or the 'desert' cloth or the 'sky' cloth, rather than have my table permanently flocked in some scheme.

Welcome to miniature wargaming. Have fun, that's really all there is to it.

Yes, I was going to add. Use a bare table with various bits of terrain cloth, much more flexible and looks nice.

I also use Hexon terrain with one of those non-slip carpet mats underneath it.

Another option if you are interested in going the terrain cloth route (as mentioned, this is a very good choice if you envision eventually playing lots of different climates/terrain types) is to get 4 of the plastic 30" x 72" folding tables. You can usually get these for ~$40 each and the molded plastic top variety are light enough to be easily moved around by a single person. With 4 of these you can configure them as 2x 6' x 5' tables, a single 6' x 10' table or even as a single 5' x 12' table. The tables are also handy to have around for household projects, family picnics, or other misc. activities.

Later

Brian

Make the table as big as you can. 6' wide is probably about as big as you should go because players need to be able to reach the center. Length doesn't have that limitation.

I find that you can butt one end of the table against a wall to save space. Its best to have 2.5' to 3' around the sides and other end for players to be able to sit/stand. So measuring the room will tell you what your maximum table size should be.

Flocking a table will be trouble in the long term because the flock will invariably rub off. Allergies beware.

I'd recommend using a heavy coat of paint, then sprinkling sand accross the table while still wet. Once dry, paint again, then drybrush with some different shades of green and brown. It holds up longer than flock.

Let me add just a couple of things (I've built a few gaming tables…)

If you can fit 4x8 in your space, do that. You may only play on six feet, but the other space gives you room for rule books, dice trays, record sheets or army lists, etc. I *hate* it when that stuff gets on the actual terrain, and if you feel the same and don't want auxiliary tables off to the side for miscellany, make the table bigger.

Are you going to play with anyone young, short, or chair-bound? That might make you want a smaller table.

Lastly, and most involved, I wouldn't flock the table top. Flock it, and its a gaming table and nothing else. Plus, you will have to keep it covered all the time, as dust in flock ruins the visual effect and is really hard to clean out.

Here's my crazy suggestion. This is a little work but produces a spectacularly useful table. Build the table with the 4x8 (or whatever) top. Make sure there are some lengthwise supports to keep the top from sagging.

Now, put edges on it. Get some, say, 1x2" stock and screw it along all four edges. You have built a giant tray. Into this tray you will put terrain boards. This makes the actual table top interchangeable. You can use thinner plywood or big sheets of foam for the actual play surfaces. That way you can have a dessert board, a green board, an Omaha landing beach board, etc. When not in use the boards can be stored elsewhere, vertically, easily covered, not collecting dust. Remove the game baord and you have a 4x8 worktable for spray painting large terrain pieces, jigsaw puzzles, wrapping Christmas presents, heck, you could play ping pong.

If the table is 4x8 you can make the actual gaming boards 4x6, and then off the ends of the terrain you have a foot at each end for the miscellany. The table top should be 5/8" or better yet 3/4" for sturdiness, but the gaming boards could be thinner for lighter weight.

Have fun!

Andrew

I had a chance to start over a few years ago, and bought 6 2.5'*6' tables from Costco. They're all exactly the same height so they abut well, and I can custom-size the table to meet my needs. They make tables in 4' and 8' lengths, too. Just make sure your wife doesn't "volunteer" them for a yard sale when you've got a big game going on…

I do the exact same thing as Murvihill. 6ea 2.5' x 6' tables but from Office Depot purchased at the same time. This insures they line up. And really, this is how it's done at every con you've ever been to, so why not at home?

And flexibility is excellent, you can make (assuming you have the room for it – I also ignore the 2.5' width options):

6' x 5' (2 tables)
6' x 7.5' (3 tables)
6' x 10' (4 tables)
6' x 12.5' (5 tables)
6' x 15' (6 tables)

5' x 12' (4 tables)
5' x 18' (6 tables)

7.5' x 12' (6 tables)

And probably a few I'd not considered. And the beauty is, if you need the room for something else for awhile, just fold them up.

I've organized gaming conventions and game days for a number of different events and so I have had to help a wide variety of gamers and a wide variety of games. I have to agree with those who favor the plastic 2.5 x 6 tables. They are the most versatile option. I've seen them on sale in the US for as little as $30 USD each at Walmart or Lowe's (they tend to be more expensive on line, even before shipping).

This is exactly what you want:
link

I even have a couple that fold in half so to only be 2.5 x 3 for easy transport and storage.

link

Of course you are making a table only for yourself, so you can do something more specialized like flocking the surface. I would argue against this. A flocked surface is hard to maintain and collects dust if not covered. I've actually had trouble breathing around some of them. If you cover it temporarily to run a different sort of game, like a naval game, you can mess up the flocking. With a cloth or terrain boards you have something portable in case you want to run your games at cons.

dont forget to add sliding shelves under the playing surface to store all the charts and maps and extra dice.
that way only essential troops are on the table for photo ops.
drink holders on the edge would be nice as well too.

Yes I have 2 of the folding 6 x 2.5 tables. They can go in the trunk or back seat of my car. Work fine for most games of 2 to 6 people
When I get bigger games (more people)ones I bring out the ping pong table.

I made my table…6 by 12. which give me a 2 1/2 to 3 foot walk around in my gaming room. But I made it so that the top will come off (used locks and dowels to lock top in place during play) so that i could have a 12 inch well underneath for my model railroad) In addition I also added at the drawers (1 6", 1 2 4", 2 2") a 3 inch lift and adjustable shelves. table top to ground is 42 1/2 inches…easy on the back. If anyone wants a photo or two, or further information.. just ask and I will send off line. bb61skc at verizon dot net

Scotty
Just my nickles worth of dimes

This guy has a great set-up. You might consider a table like his:

link

My next gaming table will be similar.

Jim