| Gunfreak | 14 May 2008 4:12 a.m. PST |
as every 40mm figs is beheaded, and you have to glue them on, which is a pain in the A$$ Ive tried my normal glue I use for baseig and I've tried superglue and non work very well, superglue gets the job done after a dozen tries, but it's seems a little random if the head stays on or not |
| coopman | 14 May 2008 4:24 a.m. PST |
Try some two part epoxy glue. Dries in 5 minutes if you get that version. Wal-Mart or any hardware store has it. |
Chortle  | 14 May 2008 4:29 a.m. PST |
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| mskelly | 14 May 2008 4:31 a.m. PST |
And I wouldn't just glue on the heads – I'd drill and pin them too. |
| Ram Kangaroo | 14 May 2008 4:58 a.m. PST |
You could try a compound called JB Weld. It's a two part material and I've seen it used for repairing pistons, crankcases, pipes etc. I've used it to repair the kids' toys where normal epoxies would fail. However: - it's a bit expensive (~$9 Canadian for two small tubes) - it's grey in colour so you'd have to repaint the seams - it's a little difficult to work with, but probably not more than other compounds - it takes 45 minutes to set and should have 24 hrs to cure - I haven't tried it on any minis yet :), but I plan on trying it for adhering my multi-part 28 mm figures. |
| the gaul | 14 May 2008 5:22 a.m. PST |
I drill out the socket a little deeper, make little balls of green stuff, put super glue into the socket and then pick the green stuff up with the plug on the head and push the neck and the green stuff into the socket and the super glue --perfect bond and the green stuff fills any crack. i have never lost a head on a figure including the 25mm redoubt ACW. Be careful that you do not make the little balls of green stuff to large or it will squeeze out onto the neck. Like I said earlier -if you make them just the right size for the socket it not only gives a tight bond it fills in the cracks. I do about 5-10 figures at a time so the super glue does not dry. |
| WarWizard | 14 May 2008 6:37 a.m. PST |
I would also drill and pin the heads in place. That has worked well for me with Redoubt ACW. And I also use the green stuff technique like the gaul describes above, when attaching my Zulu shields. I find the green stuff dries like cement. Never lost a shield. It is more time consuming of course, but I find worth the effort. |
| SMPress | 14 May 2008 8:24 a.m. PST |
I use the green label zap a gap, never have any trouble, ignore the yellow and pink labelled versions though
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| Ilodic | 14 May 2008 9:55 a.m. PST |
What I have been using for years, both to temporarily mount the figure while painting, and for securing the base is industrial strength Goop. It holds very well, and is flexable, unlike epoxy, so with not crack from the base. Also, it easily removed and can be pealed off. (Yes, I use this on my 40mm Sash and Saber figures too.) ilodic.
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| nycjadie | 14 May 2008 12:49 p.m. PST |
Never had a problem with Zap a Gap, although I've only assembled and painted 40 of the Indians. The necks on those have a good length of metal to insert into the head. I'm not sure how you'd effectively pin those. It seems a lot fiddlier than holding the head until the glue dries. |
| nycjadie | 14 May 2008 12:49 p.m. PST |
I'd probably use epoxy if cyano doesn't work. |
| MDIvancic | 14 May 2008 3:44 p.m. PST |
I've just finished about 150 figures using super glue. I get my cyano at Hobby Lobby, nothing special about it. As nycjadie has said the necks have a good length and I've never had to pin them. Once in a while I did have to drill out the hole due to flash. Strong bond once everything is dry. |