"Mold line removal, plastic cement?" Topic

Has anyone ever tried this for hard-to-reach areas on plastic models?

Since it in effect melts the plastic, would it -applied ever so sparingly- be useful in removing the mold lines on my 8.4 GAZILLION genestealers and gaunts?

it's never worked for me. It doesn't remove the seam line and usually goes someplace you don't want it to go and then you've got finger prints all over and the genestealer is stuck to your fingers and you pull the figure from your finger but then one of the genestealers arms/legs stays on your finger and pretty soon you have glue all over your hands, finger prints all over the figures, genestealer arms and legs where you don't want them…and the seam lines are still there. I wouldn't recommend it.

Yes and no. Unless it's a very thin, low mold line, it would take a lot of applications to eliminate one.

The best way to remove semi-hidden mold lines is to get rid of what you can with a hobby knife or riffler file: link

Riffler files are *great* for reaching into hard-to-reach places.

After you've removed as much of the mold line as you can, *then* apply liquid cement to smooth out the file marks and remove the last vestiges of the mold line.

I use TENAX-7R or Ambroid Pro Weld. I use either of these to join plastic parts and to smooth out mold lines after scraping or sanding. Tenax is less aggressive and does not have a odor. Ambroid is more aggressive and has a strong odor.
It will work but you must be careful. They melt the plastic.

I agree…if just removing the mold line, it'll take forever, there'd be more risk of damaging details, and it will probably take a few years off your life. The old tried n' true methods are the best…

Damon.

sigh….
Did I mention how much I hate the mold lines?

They're a pain, yeah, but at least they're easier to remove on styrene than on pewter.