| DanWW2 | 06 May 2008 4:11 p.m. PST |
I'm painting WW2 28mm Germans and Soviets, and am happy with everything except the skin tones, which I've been doing with various Vallejo flesh tones and a GW flesh wash which I think is too dark. Th problem I have is that the skin tones don't work well together- some are too pink; some too yellow and some too pale, which clash rather than blend. Does anyone have any (simple) 3 colour/tone schemes for skin? What I really want to do is use colours that work well together straight from the pot with minimal mixing as I've got a lot of troops to do. I'd prefer to use Vallejo paints as those are what I mainly use, but am open to suggestions! :O) |
| Pictors Studio | 06 May 2008 4:13 p.m. PST |
Try chocolate brown for your base from vallejo. Medium flesh from delta ceramcoat for your next step then put a brown wash over that and highlight it again with the medium flesh. |
| Steve Hazuka | 06 May 2008 4:41 p.m. PST |
I use Vallejo cork brown. |
| Aladdin | 06 May 2008 4:57 p.m. PST |
I do a cinnamon brown for undertone, medium flesh for the mid-color, and a few touches of GW elf flesh for the tip of the nose, cheeks, etc. No mixing, quick try time. And if you insist on using a wash for the face (which I usually dont) try that new Privateer Press P3 flesh wash- its a much kinder, organic kind of flesh wash, and doesnt tend to blot out the whole face when dried. |
| Pictors Studio | 06 May 2008 6:06 p.m. PST |
If you dilute the wash with 2 parts water 1 part flow enhancer you won't get that blot out problem. |
| Pictors Studio | 06 May 2008 6:07 p.m. PST |
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peterx  | 06 May 2008 7:41 p.m. PST |
I agree with Pictors, dilute that flesh wash! Don't use it straight up. |
Flashman14  | 06 May 2008 8:45 p.m. PST |
Cork Browns a good way to go
My usual recipe is all GW: 1. Basecoat: Dwarven Flesh 2. Flesh Ink 3. Dwarven Flesh again leaving the ink in the recesses. 4. Dwarven Flesh again lightened with Elven Flesh 5. Elven flesh on it's own on the highest points. |
Holy Roman Emperor Joseph III  | 06 May 2008 9:00 p.m. PST |
I use GW flesh wash and I always dilute it down half and half with water. I have also found that if you add a tiny amount of soap, you will get a much better finish. -Joe |
| Remgain | 07 May 2008 4:02 a.m. PST |
Translating Flashman recipe in Vallejo: Dwarven Flesh = 803 Brown Rose Elven Flesh = 815 Basic Fleshtone I usually base with Saddle Brown or Mahogany Browm. Marco |
| KatieL | 07 May 2008 6:03 a.m. PST |
I also start with Cork Brown, and a second layer with a mix of 50/50 Cork Brown and Basic Flesh and then a final highlight with Basic Flesh. (Unless it's Elves. In which case they get Basic Flesh + White). |
| Palafox | 07 May 2008 6:08 a.m. PST |
For a simple solution try Andrea flesh paint set. Very similar to Vallejo but the bottles need more shaking. link |
Flashman14  | 07 May 2008 7:58 a.m. PST |
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| Steve Flanagan | 07 May 2008 8:04 a.m. PST |
I try to vary Caucasian flesh tones (redheads should have lighter skin, for example; and winter-based figures should not have a deep tan), but the default from which I vary is currently (from darkest to lightest): 1 Mix of Vallejo Chocolate Brown and Citadel Dwarf Flesh 2 Citadel Dwarf Flesh 3 Mix of Citadel Dwarf Flesh and Vallejo Basic Skintone 4 Vallejo Basic Skintone 5 Mix of Vallejo Basic Skintone and vallejo Light Skintone Adjust and omit stages according to taste and how much time you are willing to spend on a single figure. |
| fowler | 07 May 2008 10:31 a.m. PST |
Vallejo cork brown 843 is my first choice, (what I recommended in my SOTCW and SHQ paitn guides) then highlight with the flesh tone that best suits your mini's nationality. Failing that Vallejo 929 Light Brown. Depends on the contrast your after? se :) |
| Saxondog | 07 May 2008 10:46 a.m. PST |
I personally have become fond of the Reaper Master series flesh tone paints. A base, a highlight and a shade that are designed to work as a set. I'm one of the guys who uses a lot of craft paints but these fleshtones are great. A fair set, a rosy set, a tan set, an asian set(golden), and an African set(dark skin). Excellent paints. |
| DanWW2 | 07 May 2008 12:25 p.m. PST |
Doh! I just had to verify my email due to TMP changes in order to reply to my own post! Anyway- loads of very useful advice there so many thanks! Right- off to order some more paints and experiment with those skin tone suggestions! :O) |
Der Alte Fritz  | 08 May 2008 10:05 a.m. PST |
I use a red brown (from IWM) as my base coat, then Ceramcoat Ruddy Flesh for the main color and then highlight with Ral Partha Flesh. My Ceramcoat bottle has been going strong for about 10 years now, hard to believe, but its true. I have a bottle of Reaper Flesh Ink that is a very dark brown. I don't understand why this color is so dark because it totally darkens out the regular flesh color underneath. Hence, I don't use it. |
| paul liddle | 08 May 2008 1:31 p.m. PST |
I use GW Bestial Brown over a black undercoat , add some white for the mid colour then add some more white for a highlight.Sometimes I use a 4th even lighter highlight but thats about it. |
| christot | 11 May 2008 9:40 a.m. PST |
For years I've used a Vallejo base "sunny skintone" as a base – then wash with India red oil paint, (thin to suit) , and then highlight in the same "sunny skintone"- Looks great- very simple, very fast |
| johnnytodd | 12 May 2008 5:36 p.m. PST |
I'm sure this is utter heresy but I've tried the quick-drying acrylics and now I'm back using oils (humbrol and testors – yes testors!). I mix my own highlights and shadows. The oils are so much easier to blend and lighten, and you can you can work them almost indefinitely with a bit of thinner. I do use a white acrylic primer which helps the flesh tone to "glow" |
| fowler | 12 May 2008 11:55 p.m. PST |
Wargames Illustrated has published a painting guide for 1/72 scale miniatures with notes on painting skin. se cpmodels.co.uk
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