RACDVM | 07 May 2007 4:52 a.m. PST |
After years of painstaking, time consuming effort in painting figures one at a time, I am faced with the prospect of having to complete a rather large number of figures quickly for my sons who have recently gotten into miniature wargaming :). I've decided to use the dip method as it gives good results and is very time efficient. I remeber seeing a website where they went into it in some detail, does anyone have any suggestions. Can anyone offer an opinion of what is currently the best product to use? (I've heard minwax wood stain was good). And does the stain obscure detail on 15mm figures? |
Dentatus | 07 May 2007 5:06 a.m. PST |
My limited experience suggests you paint everything a shade lighter than desired and brush on the stain/ink. I've used minwax stain as well as inks on 28mm figs and found in some cases you want to water it down to avoid clogging details. I also tend to wait until the pieces are dry, then pick out some final details before sealing. Good Luck. |
CHUKmwowm | 07 May 2007 5:42 a.m. PST |
I've used the Minwax dip method on 28mm. Agreed; paint a lighter shade than you want. However I've since switched to a Future clear acrylic/paint/ink mix and had better more controllable results. Also switched to brushing it on. It's not as bullet proof as minwax, but does protect some. Future has the added benefit that you can choose/mix n match colors however you please. Currently I'm using earth brown paint -w- black ink, but if you were painting aliens or some such you could use some funky combos to neat effect. |
Cyclops | 07 May 2007 6:10 a.m. PST |
I've never had a problem with it clogging details in 28mm or 15mm (I'm in the UK and use Wilkinson's own brand Oak woodstain). But I ALWAYS use a brush rather than actual dipping. And yes, painting a shade lighter is usually the way I go. I never mix or water down as that's exactly why I use the dip in the first place- consistency of result straight from the tin. I occasionaly drybrush lightly afterwards if it's darker than I'd like, but that's a rarity. It works particulsrly well on irregular types. All of my Gripping Beast Arthurians are dipped and look fantastic (by my standards). No highlighting or shading used, just basic colours over a brown undercoat. Not sure I'd be using it on Napoleonics in dress uniform or anything like that. |
Sgt Slag | 07 May 2007 6:21 a.m. PST |
Do a search on The Dip, here on TMP. You'll find a plethora of information, including links. I've used it for years, both The Dip (uses MinWax's Polyurethane-Stain combo), and Magic Wash (Future Floor Polish + acrylic paint of your choice). If you use the Magic Wash, don't water it down -- that thins its protectiveness, because it thins the acrylic clear coat. With both techniques, apply a matte clear coat to dull the shine. Both techniques will work well on 15mm figures/vehicles, as well as larger figures. If you are concerned that you won't like the results, pick out some scrificial lambs, so to speak, and perform some tests with the techniques. I would recommend you try both methods, to see which one you prefer. If you have any questions, please post back. Cheers! |
Sgt Slag | 07 May 2007 6:22 a.m. PST |
"scrificial" = "sacrificial". Cheers! |
Thomas Whitten | 07 May 2007 7:42 a.m. PST |
It works fine on 15s. Paint the figures in slightly brighter before hand. After Dipping, watch for drips and pools. After a day, do a drybrush of Howard Hues concrete afterwards. Finish with with a liberal sprayings of dull coat. Many light coats. 1> Use Tudor from Ace 2> Do a sample unit to make sure you like the results. |
Lullabye Skipp | 07 May 2007 8:13 a.m. PST |
I've just done some GZG 15mm figures and am really pleased with the results
use a brush & have fun. |
Broadsword | 07 May 2007 9:40 a.m. PST |
You can "cut" (or "waterdown") the MinWax "PolyShades" Polyurethane-Stain with their clear Polyurethane. I use straight Tudor for orks and savages, while 1:1 mix of clear & PolyShades for a less dramatic effect. And, yes, brushing it on is the way to go. Also work in a well ventilated area. |
DyeHard | 07 May 2007 10:50 a.m. PST |
You may well have all the info you need here already, But here is a link to my little web page on the use of the dip method: link And this one about mass production includes dipping: link I hope this helps: DyeHard 15mmvsf.bagofmice.com/index.html |
Bobgnar | 07 May 2007 10:52 a.m. PST |
link there is a new flavor -- Bombay. Very dark, almost black. I cannot find Tudor any more. |
Sysiphus | 07 May 2007 1:45 p.m. PST |
Bob, I can still special order the Tudor from Ace Hardware if I order a case of six. Split it out with others in the Club. Oggie |
LostPict | 08 May 2007 10:30 a.m. PST |
A friend breathed the secret to his family's dip recipe on his death-bed (or at least his miniatures death bed) – hats of to Kyle whereever you are :) 2 parts water 2 parts Future Floor Polish 1 part GW Brown Ink It works great and has enlivened many of my figures. Lost Pict |
Farstar | 08 May 2007 1:41 p.m. PST |
A friend breathed the secret to his family's dip recipe on his death-bed (or at least his miniatures death bed) – hats of to Kyle whereever you are :)2 parts water 2 parts Future Floor Polish 1 part GW Brown Ink
Except that this is a recipe for "Magic Wash", even if you are "dipping" the minis. Future Floor Polish == "Magic Wash" MinWax Polyshades == "The Dip" |
stenicplus | 10 May 2007 5:43 a.m. PST |
OK, I'll buy in. I've an army of skeletons to do and DIP sounds like the ideal solution (forgive the old tired pun). I'm assuming Polyshade Minwax is a US product, so what is the equivalent in the UK. Wilkinson's Oak Woodstain was mentioned above, but any others ? Steve P |