"FolkArt *Artists'* Color paints -- not the usual..." Topic

I was researching on Plaid's website ( plaidonline.com ) and I found this in their FAQ's section ( link ) :

"What's the difference between regular FolkArt paint and FolkArt Artists' Pigments?

FolkArt Acrylic Colors are high quality pre-mixed acrylic paints. They are designed to be used directly from the bottle and not blended. While they can be blended to a certain degree, the colors will become muddy if mixed too much.

FolkArt Artists' Pigments are artist quality tube paints in a squeeze bottle. These pure pigment paints can be mixed to create any color that you need. Their blendability allows painters to blend colors like oils without becoming muddy. Their thick, creamy consistency and high pigment concentration create high coverage. You can identify the bottles by the gold caps."

I checked my stash of FolkArt paints, and sure enough, I have a few of the gold capped bottles. I never noticed the difference in the labeling, but I did notice the different cap color. I just ignored it, however, until recently.

I have mixed my own, custom colors, with FolkArt, Ceramcoat, and AppleBarrel paints, but I've never had a problem with them getting "muddy." Now that I know about the FolkArt Artists' Colors paints, I went to Wal-Mart, to check on their offerings: a scant few gold-capped bottles were on their shelves, but only a very few. The interesting thing, to me, was that the FolkArt Artists' Colors, were the same price: $0.87 USD for a 2 oz. bottle! I may have to do some looking at Hobby Lobby, and Michael's, to see if they stock the full line of FolkArt Artists' Colors.

Does anyone have any experience with the differences between the regular FolkArt pigments, and the FolkArt Artists' Colors? Inquiring minds want to know! Cheers!

I am currently using Folk Art Artist Pigements (gold cap) paints almost exclusively for my mini painting (with a couple of Reaper MS paints thrown in).

You can see how the look (sorta) by visiting sanitaryfun.com and going to the Gallery section.

The Confrontation Drunes (horned raiders, Lanyfhs, Karnaghs, archers, wraiths, and soulsnatcher figures) you see in some of the battle reports were all painted with these colors (the blue grays notwithstanding, which are Reaper colors).

I use a 4:1 Water:Future floor polish mix to mix the AP down to a flowing consistency.

I love the FA-AP, but it is sort of a hassle to have to mix colors all the time, so I'm thinking of expanding my Reapar (or maybe Vallejo) inventory and doing away with the FA-AP for sheer convenience and storage sake.

But I do like the paint. I'm no professional, but for tabletop quality, I think I get a good result. Prior to reading that same article on their website, I was using the 'standard' FA colors and I can tell you, you'll see a huge difference in the hues and vibrancy.

The one horned raider you see in some of my shots that has very blue armor was done with AP Blue (the rest mentioned above were done with Reaper Grey/Blue triad). Big difference there (and especially between the AP blues and the standard slate blue, which is what all the other Drunes in those pictures were painted with).

Anyway, hope that helps.

I should also point out, since I *just* started FoW with a set of Sherman tanks, I mixed my own Olive Drab using Reaper Pro-Paint Olive Green and FA-AP Van Dyke Brown and Ochre Yellow. I don't have any photos up of those tanks, yet, but I will soon, and you can see those, if you're interested.

It's FoW that's got me thinking about Reaper/Vallejo, though, as I really want a consistent color that is readily accessible. I mixed my OD up in a bottle to save it, but will it every look the same again? Probably not (but probably good enough).

Anyway, just thought I'd mention that, if you're looking for WWII colors, I think you can 'get there from here' but it might be a bit more troublesome than off the shelf colors specifically suited for that task.

Wow. Thanks for the info.

CC

I use some of these, mainly the Titanium White (which will not yellow over time)…

Damon.

I've gotten those for the things that I've had trouble covering with, like yellow. I mostly use the regular colors, but like having the most basic colors in the artists' pigment versions.

The main issues I have with Folk Art paints is the way some colors have specific problems. The one I like to use for drybrushing the ground comes out really thick, like a little tube of paint. Some have trouble covering smoothly, like the metallic pearl white (which now I just drybrush over silver, which does cover nicely). I'm mostly happy with the AP paints.

andy

Yeah, I guess I should say, too, that I *just* converted over to the 'fancier' AP from having strictly used the standard Folk Art colors for many years. My point being, I'm a Long way off from using up any of these AP colors, so from tube-to-tube, I can't speak to their consistence or quality.

But I like what I've used so far!

I've got a bottle of "Van Dyke Brown" that I use for painting African skin tones. Once varnished, it is nearly black. They ARE thick, though, so thinning with water is required.

I also use a mix of these paints for my miniature tanks and soldiers. I have many Folk Art bottles, some from the Delta Dreamcoat brand, and a few Apple Bottom. I can say that their thickness is quasi-perfect. So is their price.

As I am now getting into 1/300 WWII planes, I'd like to know if there are favorite colors among you guys for standard camo colors of the major powers' aircraft. I'd especially like equivalents to German RLM 74 Grüngrau, RLM 75 Violettgrau, RLM 65 & 76 Hellblau & Lichtblau, RLM 79 Sandgelb, RLM 81, 82, 83 Braun & Grüns, British Middle Stone, Dark Green, and the Soviet late war AMT-11 Blue-gray and AMT-12 Dark Gray.

Looking at the FolkArt charts stated above, I found good matches for the following:

Soviet AII green (new): Apple orchard
Soviet AII green (worn): Fresh foliage & Grass green
Soviet AII light brown: Yellow light
Soviet AII dark brown: Barnyard red

British Dark slate gray: Dark gray
British Dark earth: Nutmeg!
British Ocean Grey: Ice Blue Dk

RLM 78 Desert Hellblau: Pastel Green

US Navy Glossy sea blue 1944-45: Thunder Blue & Prussian Blue

Much flava,
—Pajaro Muerto

P.S.:
I've used FolkArt's "Dapple Gray" as a great Feldgrau, by the way!

I saw this thread and tried these paints; the opacity (of the yellow I tried) seemed to be comparable with that of Ceramcoat's "opaque yellow"; both of these are much more opaque than all the other craft paint yellows I tried.

I take back a little of what I said!

Soviet AII green (new) IS NOT "Apple orchard"! Apple orchard is in reality to flourescent for a WWII camo paint, even as colorful and happy as AII green. BUT, a 3:1 of Fresh foliage:Any bright yellow will do very nicely.

Check these charts
link
but be aware that the screen colors do differ from reality, sometimes.

Pájaro Muerto